Models > SWT210LM1124

SWT210LM1124 Speed Queen Washer

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Diagrams for SWT210LM1124

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This washer is 3/4 inches in diameter.
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This metal retaining ring is well under an inch long. Use it for your Maytag brand clothes washer or your clothes dryer.
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
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This v-style spin and agitate belt is 28-3/4 inches long and half of an inch wide. It is all black in color and made entirely of rubber.
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Sold individually. NOTE: The color on the screw may not be the same as the image, but will still function the same.
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$11.10
This hose clamp is sold individually.
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This hose attaches to the pump to help remove the water out of the washer. 7 feet in length.
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This kit comes with hub, seal head, gasket, seal shroud, seal seat, screw, spline insert, drive bell and seal.
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This high pressure inlet hose washer is black. It is an inch in diameter, made of rubber, and used with many washing machines, refrigerators, and dishwashers.
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This screw is sold individually.
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No Longer Available

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Common Problems and Symptoms for SWT210LM1124

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Noisy
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Leaking
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Burning smell
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Will not agitate
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Spins slowly
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Will not drain
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Customer:
Bryan from Chicago, IL
Parts Used:
WP40053901
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Socket set
Water leaking on floor from "mysterious place underneath washer"
Water was leaking on the floor during the wash cycle and especially during draining of the washer. I removed the front panel at ground level and watched while draining after a rinse.

I t was obvious that water was spraying from a hole in the rubber end of the hose (the hose is a fused assembly of a plastic section and a rubber section).

So, I finished draining, removed the hose (required pliers to squeeze off a hose clamp).

Upon inspecting the hose, it was also apparent that the hole was caused by rubbing against a support bracket for the motor. This should not happen, but it did because the plastic standoff supposed to keep the hose away from the bracket was installed 180 degrees backwards.

So, I simply replaced the hose and turned the bracket around to the correct orientation.

Everything worked as planned and my repair cost was much less than if I had called someone out.
50 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
HOWARD from CORTLAND, OH
Parts Used:
R9900552
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The Seal On The Bottom Of The Tub Was Leaking
Removed the front of the washer, then lifted the top up and held it up with a prop. Pulled the agitator straight up and started the disasembly. Using the photos in the hub and seal kit was a big help. The large nut on the output shaft had to be cut off with my dremel tool and the hub removed with a wheeler puller. Assembly was pretty much straight forward. Primed the pump and started the machine for the stated time and was a sucess.
33 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
mike from hull, IA
Parts Used:
WP40004201P
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Bearing went out causing lots of noise.
This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as t his is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.
24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
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