3LMVWC400YW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Joseph from PERKINS, GA
- Parts Used:
- W10440729
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Washer was off balance during spin cycle. The suspension piece broken.
Replaced 1 of 4 of the suspension bushing. Works great.
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- Customer:
- Michelle from Richardson, TX
- Parts Used:
- 72017
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Scratches in Surface
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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- Customer:
- David from BLOOMINGTON, IN
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Noise, grinding sounds. Wash tub stopped turning but motor and cycles kept functioning. Process of elimination, must be the clutch assembly.
Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.
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- Customer:
- Delmar from EAST TROY, WI
- Parts Used:
- W11244231
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
replaced drain hose that was missing
slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys
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- Customer:
- Howard from Boynton Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- 350930
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Both outside door handles turned very beige
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
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- Customer:
- John from Hale Center, Texas, TX
- Parts Used:
- WPW10240513
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
lid would not lock, washer would not run...
Removed old striker ( 2 Phillips head screws ) replaced with new striker with the 2 screws and was done, easy fix...
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- Customer:
- Tiffany from NORTH OLMSTED, OH
- Parts Used:
- W10440729
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
washer is unbalanced during a spin cycle
I watched a video on you tube before making the repair, there was only one bad rod support, location right rear, I recommend watching a video on you tube first, it is very simple to change, however the replacement of the part was not the solution to the unbalanced load during the spin cycle, so I guess I have some research to do.
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- Customer:
- Roy from BROOKLYN, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Making loud noises.
The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you
Thank you
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- Customer:
- Larry from HICKORY, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP8536939
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The main knob insert snapped.
Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
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- Customer:
- Bruce from LANDENBERG, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10780051
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Rock and roll on spin
Replaced the suspension rods.
Must be done on its side as the rods only pull down. There is no slot.
Must be done on its side as the rods only pull down. There is no slot.
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- Customer:
- Norman from MOBILE, AL
- Parts Used:
- W10440729
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
rod came loose from one upper suspension bushing
Per your directions. Note that part has been updated from original. Looks like an improvement, adds tab to grab rod, but changes installation.
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- Customer:
- JERRY W. from CARROLLTON, GA
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
making noise when starting spin cycle
Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.
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- Customer:
- Oralia from DALLAS, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10739673
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
washer shaking
the repair went well but I still haven't received a refund for the order was was sent incorrectly. Order #22085769 order date 2/3/23
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- Customer:
- Bruce from GLOBE, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WP8533953
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Stripped screws on a hub drive replacement
Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.
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- Customer:
- TERRY from WAUKEE, IA
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
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Thank you for voting!