Models > MTW6300TQ1

MTW6300TQ1 Maytag Washer

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Diagrams for MTW6300TQ1

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Also known as an O-Ring. This black o-ring seal is three inches in diameter.
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$136.02
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
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The O-Ring is included with this cap. It can be purchased separately as Part #WPW10072840.
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The purpose of this part is to help drive the outer spin basket in your washer during the spin cycle. If your washer is not spinning or agitating, you may need to replace the drive hubs. This genuine ...
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$11.80
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
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This part makes sure that the lid is shut before allowing the machine to start or agitate. NOTE: This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to prior parts including
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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The suspension rod kit supports the wash drum and keeps it stable during unbalanced loads. If your washer is making a loud banging sound during the washing cycle, check to ensure the suspension rods a...
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Sold individually. NOTE: The color on the screw may not be the same as the image, but will still function the same.
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$11.10
This hose clamp is sold individually.
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This kit includes the shaft, 3 bearings, seals , grease, adhesive and the spanner nut, which is NOT sold separately. Also may require a bearing driver tool to install. PS3503307
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This rotary position sensor is a genuine OEM part for your washing machine. It helps to ensure the load of clothing stays balanced during the wash cycle. Customers have rated this repair as easy. To c...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for MTW6300TQ1

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Leaking
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Will not agitate
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Will not drain
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Will Not Start
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Lid or door won’t close
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Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
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Spins slowly
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Spinning Issues
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Locking Issues
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Shaking and Moving
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Marks left on clothes
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Customer:
ROBERT from BARRINGTON, IL
Parts Used:
W10536347
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set
Loose change entered drain pump, cracked housing leaked all water out
Disconnect power, hot/cold supply and drain hose. Tip washer onto front side, expect some additional water to leak out. Remove the cracked drain pump, 3 screws, hose clamps, and electrical plug.

Tip washer back up, use the putty knife to pop the top cover up (clips are about 6.5in in from sides). Unclip the white plastic cover over the outer and inner tubs. Pop the center cap from inside the inner tub, exposing the bolt holding the inner tub down. Remove bolt, pull inner tub up and out.

At bottom of outer tub remove 2 screws from drain access cover, should find some change under there (or in the pump).

Re-assemble using new pump.

Note:
Before new pump arrived I was able to use some silicone sealant, epoxy, and black tape to temporarily fix the cracked pump housing after pulling it out.
204 of 236 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
DENNIS from OELWEIN, IA
Parts Used:
W10435302
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Washer was noisy, Top seal and bearing bad
You better be confident in your repair abilities before you try this. Get the washer to a large open area, like your garage, because there are a lot of parts. Take off the back, pop the top, unsnap and remove the top ring off outer tub, take out the agitator, take out the inner tub, disconnect the pumps and electrical wires, take screw ou t of rotor on bottom and remove rotor, take out 4 bolts to remove motor magnet ring, and now you may be ready to unhook the outer tub from the 4 supports (springs) and lift it out of the metal frame. Then unscrew the bottom nut on the shaft, use blocks to hold the tub in place, and carefully tap the old shaft and bearings out. The instructions that came with the kit helped. The shaft and top seal comes out the top first. Then you can tap out upper bearing and then the lower bearing and spacers.Instructions called for a special tool to install the bearings but you can carefully tap them in. You will need blocks to support the tub while you tap them. First block under the tub and install top bearing, then flip over and use several blocks to hold tub while you drop the shaft, spacers, and tap lower bearing in. I did not need to tap on the inner ring of the bearings, just the outer ring. Be very careful not to damage the seal in the bearings. That's why you must tap them in careful and slow. Them install the nut on the bottom. You need to hold the shaft with damaging it while you tighten the nut. I used the hard nylon gear from the inner tub which I was replacing with a new one. Then put it all back together.
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Customer:
James from Turnersville, NJ
Parts Used:
WPW10189966
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Washer always stopped at the 47th and 24th minute of each load and display F1 error code. I would have to press "cancel" and then "start" a few times for it to continue.
Removed the dial control top covering by unscrewing the 3 screws in the back of the cover. Once the cover was off, the control module was exposed and all I had to do was:

1. Disconnect the wires that were plugged into the control module

2. Remove the old module. There was 1 screw holding it in place.

3. Replace with the new module. Put back the screw back.

4. Reconnect the wires. There was about a 8 different plugs that needed to reconnected. So I took a few pictures of how the wires were connected/plugged in, with my compact camera (just in case I forgot where each went). I didn't need to use the pictures, but it was just a safety net in case I forgot where each went.
150 of 170 people found this instruction helpful.
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