MHW4000BW1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.

Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.

The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machine requires brute force.

Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.

Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.

Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.

First some background. The door locked up the first time when appliance was less than one year old. The "Maytag Repairman" finally succeeded in getting the door open after propping up the front of the machine and fumbling around underneath for a period of time and then assured me the problem was solved. The problem recurred less than a year later, and I called another repairman who seemed to have an easier time of it, and charged $293.42 to replace the water level switch. About six months later the same problem recurred and I took the cover off the top of the machine and found there a booklet "For Service Technician's Use Only". VERY HELPFUL. Told how extremely easy it was to unlock door - took about five seconds. Replacing the switch itself involved pulling one tubing off and disconnecting one elec connection from old switch and replacing on new switch. Total cost $50 plus a few dollars for shipping.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Using the Torx Screwdriver, we removed the door from the unit. Then we removed all of the screws on the inside of the washer door. After that we flipped it over and opened it up exposing the inside. We couldn't separate them entirely because there was a screw under the latch piece that we couldn't figure out how to get to. However with all the screws out on the inside of the door, we did have enough room to open it up and access the place cover that holds the hinges in. Once we accessed that we removed the roller tips from the old unit and placed them on the new one. Then we reversed the process. With a couple screws in we realized we had put the hinge in reversed from what it needed to be, so we reopened it and switched it around. Then completed replacing all the screws and reattached it to the washer. It opens and closes perfectly and we saved a couple hundred dollars for sure, as the quote to come out had been a $150 trip charge.

Watch a video about replacing this latch which made it very simple to do. Performed exactly as the video instructed.

I romoved the front of the washer access panel. I then used the pliers to remove the clamps from the old hose and to replaceit with the new one.

Maytag Washer MHW5100DW

Symptom: front loader door won't open

Error code at the beginning of a wash cycle: F5 E3 means your door latch isn't working properly which is why the door won't open.

1) First try to reset the electronics:

..... Power unit down by unplugging for one (1) minute.
..... Power unit up by reconnecting power.
..... Restart a new cycle.

Result: the door remained locked with the same error code.

2) Next manually unlock the door to see if the lock will reset and work normally again.

..... Power unit down by unplugging.
..... Remove the 3 screws holding the top cover attached to the
back.
..... Lift the top cover slightly to disengage and pull back 6 inches.
..... Use a flashlight to see the positioning of the door lock and the
manual plastic unlock tab on top.
..... Wiggle your arm down through the narrow opening on top and
pull up on the small plastic pull tab to unlock the door.
..... Power unit up by reconnecting power.
..... Restart a new cycle.

Result: the door remained locked with the same error code.

3) Finally, replace the lock assembly

..... Power unit down by unplugging.
..... Wiggle your arm down through the narrow opening on top and
pull up on the small plastic pull tab to unlock the door.
..... With the door now open, remove the wire spring retaining ring
around the rubber door gasket. On either side of the spring is a
place to grab it with needle nose pliers to assist in removing it.
..... Remove the 2 screws holding the lock assembly to the front
panel.
..... Pull back the gasket slightly near the lock assembly and
unplug the 2 electrical connections to the lock assembly.

..... Replace the lock assembly.
..... Pull back the gasket slightly near the lock assembly and plug
the 2 electrical connections to the lock assembly.
..... Use the 2 screws to attach the lock assembly to the front panel.
..... Attach the spring retaining ring around the door gasket. On
either side of the spring is a place to grab it with needle nose
pliers to assist in installing it. I also used a vise grip pliers to
help hold the spring retaining ring in place as I stretched the
spring. This step was the biggest problem for me and consumed
the most time.
..... Attach the top cover with the 3 holding screws
..... Power unit up by reconnecting power.
..... Restart a new wash cycle.

Result: the lock test cycle completed with no error codes and the wash cycle started normally.

- Shut off the cold & hot water supply lines.
- Turned on a quick cycle to drain any water left in the pipes. Once no water was coming in I turned off the unit.
- Unplug the unit.
- Remove the cold and hot water lines from the back of the unit. Keep a bucket and towels nearby.
- Remove the 3 screws from the back to remove the lid.
- Pull lid back about a 1/4" and lift up.
- The valve is located at the top rear where the water hoses attach to.
- Using plyers, remove the plastic clips from the valves holding the wires. Remember the location, you will re-attach those clips onto the new valve.
- Remove the single screw holding the valve on the back of the unit.
- Slide the valve just slightly and pull it inward towards the inside of the unit.
- Remove the electronic connections by pulling on the connectors. Remember the locations as you will re-attach them onto the new valve.
- Remove the two hoses that go to the detergent container. Using plyers to squeeze the metal retaining clip, slide it back, then pull the hose off. Do this for both hoses. Remember which hose goes to where.
- At this point, just reverse these instructions to install the new valve starting by attaching the new hoses to the detergent container.
- Then attach the electronic connectors.
- Attach the valve with the screw to the unit.
- Attach the wire clips back onto the valve.
- Attach the hot & cold water lines
- Turn on the water lines and check for leaks
- Plug unit in.
- Run a quick cycle to again check for leaks inside and outside.
- Replace the lid
- Re-install the 3 screws holding the lid.

So I was unable to get my model number so I took the hinge off the washer and was able to order the part. Before removing the hinge I used a marker and marked the hinge location on the washer. Once I got the part I removed the T15 screws on the inside part of the door and separate the pieces. I was able to remove the white tube for all 4 of the pins and put them on the hinge. I installed the hinge an then i put the front door pieces back together again while it was laying on the floor. I though I put it in wrong but I was correct. Once i had the hinge on the door and the door reassembled, I was able to attached the hinge to the washer. The hinge comes off the washer by pushing up on it and to reinstall you push down. I tighten the 4 T25 screws using the marks on the washer and the door is alligned correctly. I am able to close the washer door with one finger instead of my whole hand.

Two people to screwdrivers, stretching the spring out and around and that’s the last part to go on

Old dispenser part came loose from dispenser drawer area, hit the floor and broke two plastic connectors. Very small and fragile plastic tabs are all that retains the front of the dispenser drawer. Cost for those two parts over $100 retail.

Be gentle with plastic components.

1. Unplug power, turn off water supply valves and remove water supply hoses from washer.
2. Remove three screws on back of washer for top cover.
3. Slide top cover back 1/2-3/4 inch and remove from machine
4. Remove water inlet valve set screw to left of hot water supply connector.
5. From the inside of the washer, slide the inlet valve to the left, disconnect wiring, and wire clips.
6. Disconnect hoses from back of detergent dispenser.
7. Connect hoses from new inlet valve to back of detergent dispenser
8. Connect wiring, and wiring clips to new inlet valve.
9. Slide inlet valve back into place and install set screw.
10. Replace top cover and install three screws for top cover
11. Recommend replacing supply hoses (mine leaked, and were approx. 5 years old).
12. Install water supply, turn on water, check for leaks. Plug in washing machine.

Video demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH0TppbTtI0

The repair was easier than the troubleshooting. Figured out the hot or cold water supply valve was failing which allowed water to enter the tub via the dispenser leaving several inches of water on clean clothes or the empty cylinder.

To replace the valve you need to first shut off the hot/cold water supply and remove the hoses. (I took this time to replace the several year old hot & cold water supply rubber hoses with metal braided hoses. I also took a wire brush to the threads of the copper spigot removing any built up corrosion or gunk.) Next you need to remove the 3 1/4" sheet metal screws which secure the top panel of the washing machine. I always take a few pictures of the old part, hose, and connectors just to make sure I replace them in the same locations.

After removing the cover you can use clamp removal/installation pliers, vice grips, or a similar tool to remove the clamps for the hot and cold water to the detergent/bleach/softener dispenser.

Then, remove the electrical connectors on the valve and if you want label them with their locations on the left or right facing the rear of the washer if you want but they are pretty much self-explanatory. They have little retention clips which need to be disengaged in order to be removed from the valve assembly.

Next, remove the hoses and then the three sheet metal screws attaching the valve to back panel of the washer. Install the new valve assembly and then attach the hot and cold water hoses using the clamps to the detergent/bleach/softener dispensers. Then, attach the electrical connectors to the new valve and listen for the clip to engage and gently pull back on the connector (not the wires) to ensure they are properly attached to the valve.

Reconnect the hot & cold water supply hoses from the building pipes and turn-on both spigots or ball valves. Check for leaks and then plug in the washing machine and run a load to test the normal operation. I would leave one piece of dry clothing in the tub after running a load and leave it for a few hours to ensure the new valve is working as advertised.

If there are no further leaks, you are done! Way to go!

I took the machine top off, then removed the control panel, removed old wire ring clamps. Removed door, removed inner clamp, water inlet tube, and bellows. Lubed up the new bellows with food grade silicone. Replaced the water inlet, inner clamp, door, outer spring clamp, reassembled the washer body and control panel and then ate a pizza.

Unsnapped the broken assembly and then proceeded to snap the new assembly pieces in place. VERY EASY! Even for a 74 year old woman ??