MAH22PNAGW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

replacing the hook was simple 2 torx screws. the latch assembly seemed ok I could hear it trying to latch the hook so i just replace the broken hook.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Unplug machine from electrical outlet.
All screws can be removed with a 1/4" socket, either with a socket wrench or nut driver.
Top panel - remove three screws on back, slide panel back an inch or so, and lift off.
The control panel must be carefully pulled off by using a screwdriver to pry it away, and then placed on top of machine. Be careful not to disconnect or damage any attached wires.
Pull out the detergent dispense drawer, press the retainer on the left rear of dispenser drawer, and pull it out and set it aside. One small torx screw must removed from the dispenser housing.
Bottom front panel - remove three screws to take it off. This exposes the screws on the front panel.
The front panel of machine must be removed as well.
This is the most tedious part of the job, as the door seal must be disconnected from the panel. Remove the wire and spring retainer around the door that holds seal in place. The spring portion of the retainer is on the bottom of the opening. Pry it off with a screwdriver, being careful not to damage the rubber seal. Do not remove it, simply push it into the washer opening.
Remove the screws from the front panel - two on top, and two bottom. It has some wires on the right side, and to avoid damaging them, support the panel with a stool and prop it up against the machine.
You can now access the hose on the rear bottom of the dispenser. Using a pliers, squeeze the retainer and pull the hose off the dispense. The other end is pressed into the tub - simply pull it out. I recommend cleaning the edges of hole to assure a good seal when installing the replacement.
To install the replacement hose, press it into the tub, making sure to get the channel in the hose properly inserted in order to make a solid seal. Attach the other end to the dispenser with the retainer.
Reassemble by reversing the order described above.

Remove two star screws. Remove broken striker. Installed new striker. Took two mins.

Couldn’t see exactly where it was coming from. Checked the bellow and it looked ok. Took this hose off and it was kinda chewed up a bit where it connects to the tub. Not bad but enough to make it leak. Ordered the new one. Took forever to get here thru fed ex smart post. Repair takes longer to get the panels off than it does to put new hose on. Hope this helps someone out there.

1/4 inch nutdriver, took the top and the front panel of and renew all rubber parts / hoses. It looks less than 1 hours. All parts like factory quality, everything fits perfect.

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

I followed the steps from online videos to determine where the leak was coming from (cleaned the pump filter, still leaking; checked gasket and inlet hoses).

Finally, I discovered a wet area and cut on the drum-to-pump hose. When I removed the hose, I found that the culprit was a credit card that had broken into shards and slit the side of the hose. I was happy to see it was from the previous owners, which meant it wasn't my fault!

I did have a hard time removing the clamps (double-wire "rotor clip" or "spring clamps", according to Google) holding the hose to the drum and pump. This became a problem when replacing the hose as well. I was not strong enough to squeeze the ends together to loosen the clamp.

Getting the old hose off was easy enough, as was putting the hose back on. The problem was clamping it back on, as I mentioned.

I tried using zip ties, but this was a disaster! I tested it using a rinse and spin cycle, and the zip tie seemed to hold. However, the hose slid off during the first full cycle I ran and dumped at least 15 gallons of water on the floor. Clean up was not fun!

My recommendation (and what I finally went with) is to use hose clamps with the small screw that lets you tighten the clamp with a screw driver. I used that on both the connection to the drum and the connection to the pump and I've had no issues since.

Overall, it's a quick fix once you have the hose replacement and the right parts. If I'd gotten the hose clamps right away, I could have been done in 30 minutes.

Hope this helps and good luck with your repairs!

very easy repair watched videos to diagnosed problem. Removed old sensor and rubber seal replaced with new.

Removed top lid (only to be able to remove pressure sensor hose easily). Removed hose clamps and tied the ends together in order to keep in loose position. Then squeezed the damaged hose up between sidewall and tub to remove pressure sensor rubber pipe. Installed Hose with clamps tied in the loose position with thin wire. Attached the pressure sensor pipe. Loosened the thin wire holding clamps loose. Tested for leaks by running washer. Leak repaired.

Pretty straight forward , It is a tight work are especially laying on your stomach. To make installation easier I recommend buying a 3-4 inch hose clamp instead of trying to use the old pinch style clamp. You will only need a zip tie if you reuse the existing clamps. remember to remove the plastic ball from the old rubber hose into the new hose.

Removed top and front lower panels remove door panel.Remove ring from boot seal don’t damage seal.Replace hose,reassemble.Job is a lot easier if you purchase tool to re-install door ring seal.Tool is available from several sites on the net.

Boyfriend followed directions and YouTube and I’m sooooo grateful!! My door shuts easily.. I love my machine and my man with your directives and your parts made my magic happen!!

After further investigation I realized that the original dispenser hose from the soap bin to the inner tip was the cause of the leak. Before this repair, I replaced the bellows. And as part of that replacement process you have to remove the washer dispenser hose from the inner tub so that I could complete the bellows installation. However when I put everything back together the old washer dispenser hose was leaking terribly. This was fixed easily with a new hose and an 1-1 3/4 inch hose clamp. I found an installation video that allows you to come from the top down to replace this hose but for my model of washer and because the drier was stacked on top, I took apart the front of the washer since I learned from a different video how to do this in order to install the bellows. No more leaking at all with the new hose.