WF316BAW Maytag Washer - Instructions

replaced door latch but door would not close had to remove latch assembly and reset the latch in the latch assembly. To reset latch in latch assembly you remove the black plastic only on latch assembly then press the spring down with thumb move the black plastic catch back to the latch position. when you remove the black plastic there is four metal switchs and one spring that you have to pay attention too so remove very carefully.

The rear access is attached with 2 Phillips head screws, which I removed.
The drain hose is held up with a similar screw.
I removed the screw and drained the hose into a bucket.
Then I just removed the connector and hoses with my fingers, removed the three 1/2" bolts holding the pump in place, changed the pump and put everything back together. Works like a champ. Quick and easy fix.
My only negative comment is that I only needed the impeller, but had to buy the complete pump assembly. Other than that, all fine.

Never thought that the glass would break like it did. Removed the whole door assembly and took out the screws that hold the plastic retaining ring for the glass door. Replaced glass and reassembled the door. Very easy repair. Took about 15 min.

I took the two screws off the back that holds the top down, lifted it , then pulled it back to remove. After this was removed, there were two more screws holding down the assy-s housing and drawer. First remove drawer where you add the soap and softners. Then I pulled that back and the assy-s housing drawer just snaps onto the housing. I pulled the drawer off, then I took the four hoses that are connected to the back and put on the new one in their respected spot. I snapped it back on and reassembled. You don't need a maytag repair man to do this job.

The dog ate the door latch so I ordered a new one. All I had to do was unscrew the old one, remove, and screw in the new one. Super easy. Took longer to find the screwdriver than it did to make the repair.

Took off top. Removed front control panel.Removed top screws on front door panel,then I had access to door lock for removal.Had to replace door latch also as this was broken while trying to close door before we noticed the door lock was not working.

(1) Remove all screws keeping them organized as a set,(some are larger than others,for the glass frame only. After all screws are removed remove frame from the door.(2) Remove old glass and replace with the new one and put it all ack together.

In this model the 2 main springs hang from a bracket built into the top of the machines frame. For some reason one of the pring was installed without the protective plastic grommet (called the guide spring washer). The handened spring eventually wore through the softer metal bracket due to the vibration of the washer.
The purchsed plastic part fit into the bracket so firlmy that even with part of the bracket wore away it appears to be still strong wnough to support the weight of the tub. It has made it through 10 loads so far and it still working well.
Getting at the spring was easy but lifting the tub was heavy. Thanks - $4 part saved a $1000 washer.

Watched the video, procedure was simple and as depicted on the video. Started by using a wet shop Vac to the discharge hose and sucked as much dirty wash water out as possible. Removed the pump,and found the motor did not turn freely. Removed the motor (3 screws) and replaced the motor with new part. Reassembled the washer, everything worked as it should. After about 3-4 loads of laundry, the "Not Draining" code / problem returned. Again, sucked out the water with the Shop Vac. Checked the Filter /Cleanout and found it completely packed with MUD. Cleaned that out, and again disassembled the washer. The pump was removed and the remaining muddy gunk was cleaned from the impeller. The 3 drain lines that attached to the pump were inspected for blockage/obstruction and flushed of any muddy residue. Reassembly was quick and easy, and the washer has worked well since. I have no idea how the dirt got into the system with enough dirt to gunk up the system. Recommend keeping more frequent inspections of the cleanout trap.

I removed the spring that goes around the rubber on front of drum, pulled back rubber near the lever, removed the 3 screws holding in the latch, reached in and disconnected the 3 plugs to part, connected new part put it in place screwed it in, put the part of rubber i pulled back, put spring back around the rubber, plugged machine in done

Removed the rear top two Phillips screws, pull off top cover. Unscrew two phillips screws that hold the outside front lock trim, unclip (one left of housing) plastic housing. Remove one phillips screw 11 o'clock from housing, about 6" away, with door button above it, which releases the door lock housing from inside the machine. From right side (facing machine) look down into left front of machine, you will see a black cover, which does a goid job hiding the white part, but it protects the part from water, I guess. Unclip 3-4 plugs, push spinning loader away to pull out the complete part easily. Swap back covers (a bit annoying to place wiring harness back in such a tight place, and cover on. You can try another method if you have a simpler way, like place the harness onto part first, before plugging in and placing cover. But, I kept dropping the part into the machine, which equals a little pita). Then screw the 11pm screw to hold part and the two other screws (small housing and cover), place remaining 2 screws, and lid. Pretty much undo the above procedure. Done.

An initial issue was getting the door to unlock. I tired several things but finally was able to pull the door as if to open it and put something between the door handle and the front of the washer while I ran a washer cycle. There is a way to take the washer top off and reach down inside the unit and pull down on a release, but I did not try that.

The washer has a rubber boot between the washer frame and the wash tub. There is a metal wire ring that secures the outer edge of the boot to the washer frame. Peel back the outer edge of the boot at the bottom to reveal a metal ring that has its ends connected by a small spring. Use a flat tip screw drive to pry this ring off. Peel back the boot from the washer frame.

Next use a Phillips screw drive to remove the two screws that protrude through the wash frame on the right side of the door.

Reach between the washer tub and the frame and the tub and pull the switch through the opening and the washer tub. You will have to wiggle the switch around to remove it. There are three sets of wires attached to the switch by plugs.

The switch is covered with a plastic protective cover. Remove this. You will have to use a screw driver to release various catches to do this.

Remove the three set of wires. There are catches that secure the wire plugs in place. pry them back with a small screw drive.

Attach the new switch to the sets of wires.

Attach the protective cover to the switch. The wires feed through a small slot toward the bottom of the switch.

Slide the switch through the opening where you removed it. and re-attach it using the two screws.

Put the rubber boot in the channel in the washer frame. Replace the metal ring. This was the most challenging part of the repair for me. I had to play around with this to get it into position. You have to work it around the gasket and stretch out the spring.

By the way, The service was great and exceeded by expectations.

Replaced door lever (PS11741552) and door lock latch (PS11745016).

Initially I tried to replaced just the obviously broken (split) door lever, but then door would not close at all. Lever is as simple as it gets, so the problem was apparently the door lock latch.

After watching video (on this site) that shows it was fairly easy to access and install a new door lock latch (2 screws in back, 8 screws in front), I ordered a new door lock latch.

Took about 35 minutes to install new lever and latch.

Works perfectly now. I hope to get a few more years out of this machine.

I am super excited that partselect.com asked me to do this review.

1-Order part on website, validate that everything is correct. It was. PS11741552
2-Part received is going to be a small box of screws instead of your vastly overpriced plastic door latch. This will happen your first time ordering, it is normal.
3-Item refunded through customer service and a new item sent out.
4-At this point you will need to do laundry, my recommendation here is to put you back against the door, maybe read a book and have a drink for the half hour it takes for a cycle. Nobody with a washer wants to hang out with the unwashed masses at the laundromat.
5-Receive another box of screws. It this point you will now believe that the screws are a metaphor for how partselect feels about customer service.
6-Contact customer service again, get another refund. At this point partselect will just give up and tell you to order the parts from the manufacturer. Once again by the picture on the site and the confirmation, you have order the correct part.
7-Total time here is over a week to 2 because the parts move slowly.
8-Order part on literally any other site.
9-When you get it unscrew the 2 screws from the broken part. Replace with the new part and screw the 2 screws back on.
Fixed!!

I had to pull the washer out from the wall. SInce it is in front of the door going out into the garage made it dificult getting tools. I had to lay on my side doubled up in order toget to the hose. I used a bit extention so that I could get the clamp loose. Cut the time in half by using a drill with a phillips head screw bit. The only real hard part was getting the new one up tight on the drain. Used a heavy duty screw driver to push it up so the clamp would bite.