Models > MTW5940TW0

MTW5940TW0 Maytag Washer

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This suspension spring is a genuine OEM replacement part for a variety of washers and washer-dryer combos. The primary purpose of the suspension spring is to support the outer tub and keep the tub ste...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement clutch assembly for your washing machine. A clutch assembly, also known as a clutch or a washer clutch, is responsible for spinning the tub during the spin cycle. If ...
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This bolt is a genuine OEM replacement part, used to secure the agitator in your washing machine. Overtime the bolt can become worn out due to the vibrations of the washer, and will need to be replace...
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On the lid on your washing machine there is a pin that engages with the lid switch. This works by telling the machine that the lid is closed which then allows for the washer to start. If your washer i...
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The thrust spacer is a genuine OEM part that is more commonly known as a retainer ring. The spacer is made of white plastic and measures approximately 2.5 inches in diameter. This part is found in bet...
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Also known as an O-Ring. This black o-ring seal is three inches in diameter.
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The O-Ring is included with this cap. It can be purchased separately as Part #WPW10072840.
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This package of pads contains three tub wear pads.
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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Also known as Main Outer Tub Seal. This part helps to prevent leaking from the bottom of the tub.
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$11.80
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
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Sold Individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for MTW5940TW0

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Will not agitate
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Leaking
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Spins slowly
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Will Not Start
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Will not drain
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Burning smell
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No hot or cold water
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Shaking and Moving
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Spinning Issues
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Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
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Marks left on clothes
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Lid or door won’t close
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Customer:
Andrew from SLC, UT
Parts Used:
285785
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
spin cycle did not engage
researched potential causes, found cluch dust under the washer and determined that it wouldn't engage because clutch was too worn. ordered the assembly, removed agitator from inside the tub as it is connected to the gear shaft, turned washer on it's back for access to motor, unattached the direct drive water pump from the motor drive, unb olted the 3 gearcase mounting bolts and took the entire gearcase, shaft, motor, etc... together, out from under the washtub. the clutch slides off the gearshaft with a little fidgeting and the new assembly is easily installed where the previous was. put everything back together... then... spin spin! worked perfectly
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Customer:
Clint from Kansas City, KS
Parts Used:
WP8318084
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Washer wouldn't run
I removed the two screws on the back of the control panel. The control panel then flips back. The switch is on the left side. To remove the switch, I first detached the wire to the control panel and unscrewed the grounding wire. The new switch drops right in. I had a little trouble getting it in until I realized the washer lid had to be open. A little awkward but once it's in you can shut the lid and then I reattached the wire from the control panel and screwed in the grounding wire. Pretty easy. $20 for the part (with shipping) and 15 minutes. Way cheaper than a repairman.
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Customer:
Shawn from Longmont, CO
Parts Used:
285785
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Clothes washer would not spin with more than a couple socks in it. It would barely spin when empty.
Diagnosing the problem was the toughest part. I originally called a repair man - described to him the problem and he said it was most likely the transmission (gearbox)... of course that is one of the most expensive parts! I asked him if it was maybe the clutch... he said there was no clutch.. only a brake... I knew he was wrong after rese arching. The fact that the washer would agitate fine and spin very light loads but not spin anything heavy told me it was NOT the gearbox.. or the brake.. it was the clutch.. it had to be... so I called the repair man and canceled the appointment I had made then ordered the clutch assembly. Showed up very quickly. Now to the repair. I realized that I did not have to take apart the cabinet section of the washer.. I only needed access to the bottom. My washer - a 5 year old Whirlpool Gold Ultimate Care II had just a piece of foam blocking off the bottom of the washer... Easy access... I disconnected the hot and cold water and the drain tube. I removed the hot and cold water tubes from the back of the washer also so they would not get crushed when I laid the machine on its back. I unplugged the washer also. The drain tube I left connected to the washer.. I was afaid of it getting crushed while on its back, so I bunched up a large towel put it on the floor and tilted the washer slowly back onto it... the towel was enough of a spacer to keep the drain hose from getting crushed. I used a couple pieces of Duct Tape to hold the lid shut while on its back. I then removed the foam insert on the bottom. Then I unplugged the wiring harness. and a single wire that had a spade connector in the same area. I then removed the clips from the plastic water pump and slid it off the motor (I used Duct Tape again to suspend the water pump up and out of my way while I proceeded) I did NOT have to remove the motor from the gearbox. I used a socket wrench and unbolted the 3 gearbox bolts. I was able to take the whole unit, gearbox and motor out in one piece.. it slid right out (you will have to unscrew the the bolt in the top of the agitator/dispenser shaft - then the gearbox unit with the shaft will slide right out, I did this before I put the washer on it's back) Once it was slid out, I removed the clutch then reinstalled the same way I took it off. The only hard part was the circular wire retainer install for the clutch. It CAN all be done .. I ended up using 2 screwdrivers to put the new retaining ring into the new clutch assembly.. One screwdriver would hold down part of the retaining ring and the other I used to continue pushing the ring into place.. don't give up! You will get it in.. even with normal tools (This was the hardest part of the whole install) It took me 5 minutes with some force and fiddling. I also swapped in the new plastic piece that came with the clutch assembly... you will see where it goes... the old plastic piece looked fine, but I changed it out anyways - it hooks the clutch to the brake system it looks like. After the new clutch assembly was installed I just put it all back together the way I took it apart. One thing I will add was I was not sure if the clutch had to be lined up when I slid the shaft back into the washer.. It does not have to be.. It will align itself automatically. You know when you hear that click/pop when the washer is about to spin?.. well that is that plastic piece engaging with the clutch... there was a piece or two that fell off the shaft when I had removed it.. While sliding the shaft back into the washer I had to just put the pieces back on the shaft before I put the bolt back into the top of the agitator/shaft...

Summary:
Get the washer on its back - unplugged!
remove wire(s) Harness from motor
remove water pump
unbolt 3 bolts holding the gearbox
slide gearbox and motor out as one piece ( a bit heavy)
remove and replace clutch assembly (pay attention to how things are removed)

Done! put it all back together... hope that helps. It worked perfect for me.. and m
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