Models > WM2688HCM

WM2688HCM LG Washer

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Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
This part is also called the Door Boot Seal. It's the main seal between the front bulkhead and the outer tub.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for WM2688HCM

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Leaking
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
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Customer:
Danny from MOUNT AIRY, NC
Parts Used:
4986ER0004G
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
A tore bellow
I went by the video
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Customer:
Robert from EXETER, RI
Parts Used:
4986ER0004G
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The billows had two holes in the bottom part.
Removed the front and replaced the bellows. Also watched a YouTube video of someone replacing the bellows of a similar washer.
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Customer:
gary from Oklahoma City, OK
Parts Used:
4986ER0004G
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
My door boot seal, part K 510 in the blow up parts diagram , had a hole in it and the washer was leaking.
My washer was leaking and the first thing I had to do was diagnose the leak. I removed the rear door cover of the washer to watch and see where the water was coming from. When I saw the drip and on and off constant stream coming down from the door area, I knew it was the boot seal. So I got online and watched the video on how to repair the boot seal. I would like to add two additional steps. After disconnecting the drain valve on the bottom, there was also an orange dual valve (part K 512) on the top of the boot along with an electric eye (I think part K 513) that needed to be removed. The dual valve was easy: just remove the clamps and pull out the valve stems. The electric eye was secured with a nylon strip lock, and fortunately I had an extra one laying around. Cut the nylon lock and push the electric eye out of the top of the boot. Once I got to the step where I was lubricating the door boot seal groove, I also lubricated the orange dual valve stem and electric eye. They were easy to pop back into place, and then I secured the electric eye with a new nylon strip lock and the valve with the clamps. This entire repair took me about 90 minutes, and it was not that hard to do. The only difficulty I had was trying to pop the control panel off, and also trying to get the spring clamps off. I recommend you purchase a spring expansion tool like that shown in the video.
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