W3P7CVU2WVS (ABWEUUS) LG Washer - Instructions

I actually went to mr fix it on u tube. Great instruction on how to take dryer apart. First I unplugged the dryer. I found I could reach the heating system by removing the lint tube in the back of the dryer. I put my I phone with the light on inside the back of the dryer and tested the connections to see if all were working. The thermal fuse was not working. I removed the two wires , red on top and white on the bottom. Then used a small Phillips screwdriver to remove the two mounting screws and removed the fuse. I then used a vacuum to clear any lint from the back of the dryer and inside the dryer. This took me about an hour and a half. I did it this way because I did not want to disassemble the entire dryer to get to the components. I received the fuse in 3 days and tested it. It was fine. I then put it in the dryer screwed it in place, connected the wires. Replaced the lint tube. This took about 10 minutes. Dryer is running great.

I unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
I pulled the dryer away from the wall so I had room to work on it.
Pulled the top cover off (slides back).
Took the door off
Took the front adjustable feet on the bottom off
Unscrewed all of the face screws on the front of the dryer
Took the two screws off of the back of the control panel holding the control panel to the metal frame.
Gently pulled on the control panel to reveal 4 screws under the control panel to be able to take the front cover off.
Pulled the front cover off (the dryer door front cover).
Pulled the dryer vent cover off (two screws).
I could now see the heating element with sensor/fuse (right side).
Did a continuity test (beep) on all visable sensors/fuses on the heating element. No beep on the thermal fuse (used website diagram to locate parts to test and replacement part numbers).
Got the part after about a week, tested the parted (it beeped), replaced with new part and put dryer back together, plugged in and the dryer heated. Problem solved.

1. Had to find out what was causing the problem by eliminating each part one by one using a multimeter. I got a video link from parts select on how to do this.

2. Then got another video link sent to me by parts select on how to take my dryer a part and replace the part.

3. Followed it step by step and it worked really well.

4. The process was great except shipping was excessively high for such a small part.

I'm not for reading instructions. So I just dove right in and took the dryer apart to get down to the motor. I gave the dryer a thorough cleaning and replaced the 3 parts I ordered from the online recommendation. Wish I would have ordered 2 sensors and the 2 thermostats that are near the burner. Just so replace beings I was in there. Replacing the parts was easy, found them just by looking for matches to the new parts. Reassembled the dryer, dont think I put a single screw back where I got it lol. And still haven't put the top lid back on due to difficulty. Not sure if I even needed any parts, found a nest in my outside vent completely plugging it. But after a good cleaning and replacing the parts the dryer dries the best it has since we've owned it. The dryer came with our house which we bought 3 years ago and it was 2 years old when we purchased the house, so it is now 5 years old.

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

Replaced thermal fuse

I removed the Wire and spring from the tub seal and then removed the seal on the side of the washer that contains the Door switch. I removed the two screws that held the door switch in place while holding the switch with my other hand. Once the screws where out I pulled the switch assembly out thru the gap and removed the wires from old assembly. I then plugged the wires into the new assembly aligned the holes up and put the screws back in the new door switch assembly. I then put the door seal and tub seal holder back on. This took about 15 minutes. I do recomend that you unplug the washer before starting this process.

I took the dryer apart. You have to take the top off, then the door/front off. There are wires & other parts that need to be unhooked as well. A flat tip screw driver can be used to pop the top off. The screws were all phillips. Once you take that all apart, then you can access the drum. I bought the belt because I thought that was what was wrong with it. Turned out to be hair in the drum rollers. Took those all off & put wheel grease on each of them, put new belt on (since I had it LOL) then put it all back together. Make sure everything is lined up correctly otherwise you will have to take it apart & reline (which I had to do)
I am a 49yr old female & was able to do this repair on my own!

order start button and was sent thermal, reordered and rep sent me a button that was not for my machine even though she had model no.,called third time and was told I had to order new control panel but they were not being manufactured any more.so it is not fixed

Entered dryer from rear exhaust port. Removed 2 screws and 2 clip on wires. A little awkward of process but superior method over disassembly of drum and main parts.

Watched a You Tube video

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

I assumed this was a belt problem. Ordered the belt and followed the excellent screw by screw instructional YouTube provided by PartSelect. In fact, I probably would not have attempted the repair, until I watched the video and was reassured that I could do it. When I got the front panel off, the problem was obvious. There was a dishrag stuck in the blower. Didn't need the belt, but the video was sure worth the price of the part (~$17). Mr. Appliance charges $109 to DIAGNOSE the problem! This was way easier than dealing with them, especially during a pandemic near the holidays.

Installed correctly but PartsSelect sent WRONG part, but part number on bag was correct. Installation of WRONG part fried the main board. A $100 fix is now costing me about $1300.00 for technician service and new unit. I asked PartsSelect to help with cost since outcome is due to their error. Totally unsatisfied. Will not suggest company to other DIYers.