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79640272900
79640272900 Kenmore Washer
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Manuals & Guides for 79640272900
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$74.04
This is a drain pump motor assembly for washers. This OEM part is responsible for removing water from the washer during the drain part of the cycle. When this part is clogged, damaged or defective it ...
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$26.77
The hot water valve is found at the back of your washer and controls the flow of hot water into the machine. If the valve is defective, the washer may leak, overfill, fill slowly, or not fill with wat...
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$72.84
If your washing machine is leaking, slow to fill, will not stop filling with water, or is not filling at all, the cold-water inlet valve may be defective. The purpose of the valve is to open to allow ...
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$98.24
This is an original manufacturer door gasket with a drain hole, for a front-load washer. If you require a door gasket without a drain hole, that is sold separately. Door gaskets are also commonly refe...
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$41.76
This hose has bellows to allow for flexibility during the wash and spin cycles.
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$85.57
The door lock assembly is a genuine OEM part for your washing machine. This part informs the washer that the door is closed and locked in place, which allows the machine to start its cycle. If you are...
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$63.65
The tub bearing supports the spin basket shaft at the back of the washing tub. If your washing machine will not spin, is leaking water, or if there is a loud screeching noise during the wash cycle, th...
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$41.76
This is a replacement sensor assembly for your washer. It may also be known as a motor rotor position sensor. The sensor assembly monitors the direction and speed of the spinning rotor and communicate...
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$27.76
This is a replacement detergent dispenser for your washer. It stores the detergent, and then dispenses it into the washer at the appropriate point in the wash cycle. If the detergent dispenser is brok...
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$108.30
This valve is used for cold water, bleach dispenser and prewash cycles. It has a standard hose fitting inlet with 2 outlets facing 45 degrees to the right and one outlet facing 45 degrees to the left.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 79640272900
Viewing 18 of 18Leaking
Fixed by these parts
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Will not drain
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Will Not Start
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Lid or door won’t close
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Will not agitate
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Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
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Draining Issues
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Water Filling Issues
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Burning smell
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Locking Issues
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Engine runs but does not pump water
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Spinning Issues
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No hot or cold water
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Spins slowly
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Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
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Marks left on clothes
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Noisy
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Not draining
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How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Jorge from Apple Valley, CA
- Parts Used:
- 4681EA2001T
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washing maching wouldn't drain
Removed the top of the washer by removing the 4 back screws and 2 small brackets. Then I removed the front panel, this was actually the hardest part, 2 screws and 8 tabs that you pop out carefully from the top of the panel. I only disconnected the power button and was able to rest the panel on top of the washer. The rest of the washer cam
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e apart quickly just moving down the front of the washer and removing the door, latch, tub gasket, drain cover. Removing the pump was just a mater of disconnecting the drain hoses, and one clip under the drain assembly. 3 screws attach the drain to assembly to the pump and only 2 wires that are clearly marked. Reassembly is just going back through in reverse order of disassenbly. The best thing about this is that it all comes apart with a standard phillips screwdriver.
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- Customer:
- Mark from Harrisburg, PA
- Parts Used:
- 6501KW2002B
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
LE Error Message and won't spin drum properly
I first tested the motor per the service manual. I checked the resistance between the terminals of the 3 pin connector. It's supposed to be 5-15 ohms. The motor checked out so I replaced the main electrical board. It turns out that wasn't the problem. After a brief web search I found out that the hall sensor (which is attached to the
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motor stator) was the likely cause of the failure. I replaced that and everything works great now. And now I have a spare main board in case that ever fails. I also want to mention that I took the time to remove the dispenser box (where the water comes in and is directed to the different cleaning products) and cleaned it with a very strong bleach solution. It got rid of the mildew and funky smell. It seems that the fabric softener caused a lot of mildew to form inside the dispenser directly above the fabric softener tray. The bleach took care of that. This is probably something that should be done routinely to keep the mildew from forming.
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- Customer:
- Todd from STOCKTON, KS
- Parts Used:
- 4774FR3118B, 4280EN4001C, 4280EN4001D, 4036ER4001B, 4036ER2004A, 383EER3001S
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Bearing seal out causing bearings to get wet and very noisy
Watched a short video to figure out to remove panels. After panels were off I removed as much as I could from the inside of the machine. This was not completely necessary however for an extra half hour it made inspection, cleanup and removal of tub housing out the front of the machine much easier. Once out, I split the two halves of t
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he outer basin and sprayed the spider shaft with penetrating oil. Using a brass drift I did have to get a bit aggressive to drive spider shaft out, then I used a heavy metal punch to hammer out the bearings. For those who may not know using brass or a soft metal will keep from damaging reusable parts. At this point it was cleanup time, with dish soap I scrubbed the two halves of the outer basin and the wash basin itself then used emery cloth on the bearing casing and spider shaft. I am a firm believer if u take the time to cleanup properly things go back together much easier. At this point I began to reassemble, replacing tub bearings and seal, the wash basin then putting the two halves of the outer basin back together. I strongly recommend replacing gasket for the halves of the outer basin, for as much as it takes to get there it is money well spent to up the chances of a leak free system. Now with the wash tub back together it was time to reset the tub and hook everything back up. I skipped a lot of steps but if a person pays attention, takes pictures if they have to, even numbers lines with a sharpie it is a very easy repair. Very easy but very time consuming. I am DIY’er, in all I spent about ten hours over two days to do this job. Thus being said I am very particular spent a lot of time cleaning, scrubbing looking at as many wear points and checking for rubbed wires. Hope this helps someone out there, definitely not a strong writer or like doing it. Oh one other thing, I ordered the shocks on the bottom side of wash tub just because I guess not thinking they were bad just thinking I could help tune it up. Was surprised to find the old ones were completely shot, was glad I ordered new ones. After repairs, noise is gone and machine is quiet again. Thank you, your website is very easy to find parts and order.
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