Models > W206KA

W206KA Jenn-Air Washer

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Diagrams for W206KA

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This is a V-style drive belt that measures approximately 51-inches long and 3/8-inches wide. This part connects the drive motor to the drive system in the washer to turn the basket. It is prone to wea...
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This pump has 2 ports. This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
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This snubber ring fits washers and is located between the leg and dome assembly. The ring has a diameter of 9 inches. It is used to reduce noise and vibration for stability when the washer is operatin...
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Also known as Thrust Bearing Kit. This kit includes the pulley, washer, thrust bearing, 2 upper race washers and 1 lower race washer. These parts are NOT available separately - they are ONLY availab...
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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$11.80
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
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$13.11
This screw is sold individually.
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$7.69
This screw is sold individually.
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$11.12
This hose clamp is sold individually.
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This motor pulley is only an inch high and is two and a half inches in diameter. It is all black in color and is made entirely of plastic.
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This part is the replacement motor pivot spring for your washer. It is made of metal and is approximately 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. The motor pivot spring helps hold the drive motor in the corr...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for W206KA

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Leaking
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Burning smell
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Will not drain
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Spins slowly
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Will not agitate
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Will Not Start
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No hot or cold water
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Spinning Issues
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Shaking and Moving
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
David from Boca Raton, FL
Parts Used:
WP35-6465
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench set
washing machine was making alot of noise
I found the water pump bearings were going bad from humidity. I replaced the pump with a new one and it runs quiet again.
561 of 572 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Doug from Port Richey, FL
Parts Used:
WP35-6465
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Load Grinding/Rubbing Noise in Rinse and Spin Cycles
First unplug the washer for the electrical outlet. You will need to tip the washer back to get to the bottom of the machine. There you will see the belt that drives the transmission and the water pump from the motor. Remove the belt and set it to the side. Then you will need to gain access to the top side of the machine by gently using a screwdriver to pry the front of the top up off the front panel on both sides then hinge it back out of the way. Use a nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside edge of the front panel and remove the front panel. Once the front panel is off you will see the water pump on the right hand side as you face the front of the machine. Remove the hose clamp on the water pump with the flat head screw driver or nut driver and use a pair of pliers to remove the compression clip on the water pump. Remove the 4 bolts holding the water pump in place. Reverse the entire process to put it back together. This job was very easy and I was only without a washer for 2 days because of partselect.com.
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Customer:
Dan from Grain Valley, MO
Parts Used:
35-3686, WP35-3685, WP35-2978
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The unit was leaking during agitation and spin cycle
I had to remove the back lower panel with a nut driver (approximately 8 screws) as well as the front panel which is removed by poping the top of the unit removing 2 screws and swinging the panel down and lifting off.
Remove the bleach fill cap (pry off). You'll need a long extension on your ratchet to remove the bolt holding on the agitator. Next remove the inner tub which is held on by 4 bolts. The outer tub is a bit more difficult. You will need to remove all 4 shoulder screws from the top as well as the six that anchor it to the spring assembly around the bottom skirt. Since it was 7 years old I had to muscle the outer tub and rotate it to get around the inner tub transmission flange.
I'm not sure which of the 3 parts were leaking so I ordered and replaced all 3.
I don't know if it was necessary but I scraped and cleaned the aluminum flange plates where the gaskets seated.
At this point it was easy to replace the tub to housing gasket and tub/housing seal.
During reassembly I also replaced the basket to centerpost gasket.
I went with standard delivery but got the parts the next day.
58 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
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