Models > LAT7304EGE

LAT7304EGE International Washer

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Diagrams for LAT7304EGE

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This kit comes with hub assembly, agitator seal and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal.
No Longer Available
$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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$23.69
This 3 prong lid switch is used for washing machines that do not have a tub light.
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
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This kit is used on 2-belt washers. It is recommended to change the seal kit at the same time.
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This foot pad is just over an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of rubber and is gray in color. This pad is intended for use with washers and some dryers.
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This washing machine lid hinge ball is well under an inch in diameter. These hinge balls are sold separately, though two are required per lid. This lid hinge ball is made of plastic and is used for Ma...
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This is used to start your washer once the desired water level is reached.
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Sold Individually. This adjustable leveling leg comes with a stop nut.
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This black lid switch assembly comes complete with a bracket, two switches, and a fuse. An open fuse might indicate that the lid switch is bad. The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spin...
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This front cover spring retaining clip is not quite an inch long. It is made entirely of metal and is used for some washing machines.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for LAT7304EGE

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Leaking
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Will Not Start
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Will not agitate
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Will not drain
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Burning smell
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Lid or door won’t close
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Spins slowly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
douglas from bonita springs, FL
Parts Used:
6-2095720
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag wa shers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.
521 of 541 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
John from Spring Valley, CA
Parts Used:
WP22003441, WP6-2011900, WP200835
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
No spin. Pump working. Smell of burning rubber.
I determined that the spin bearing was bad and decided to replace the brake too. Placed the machine on its side and then removed the rubber cap, v-belt, screw, drive lug and pulley. Then used a chain-vise grip to turn the brake off with the aid of a 3 foot long pipe extender for leverage. Blocked up the tub to align the transmission and i nstalled the new spin bearing, brake, pulley and drive lug. Adjusted the drive lug position to contact the ccw motion of the pulley at the point when I could just feel the brake pressure. Installed the screw and rubber cap. Replaced the drive belts. Tested and all works. Halleluah!
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Customer:
Suleman from Canoga Park, CA
Parts Used:
WP207166
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench set
Washer was dead and would not turn on
Well the washer died and would not turn on in the middle of a wash cycle. Absolutely dead. I disconnected it from power and opened up the front panel on which all the control switches and knobs are mounted. This is removed by unscrewing 4 screws at the top of the washer.

Checked the fuse, and found blown. Replaced the fuse, cl osed the panel and plugged it in. Still not working. Checked the Check switches and found the Check Switch really limp. Checked with Digital Multimeter and found no continuity at either position. Unscrewed the check switch. Removal and re inspection with DMM of the check switch confirmed it was bad. Opened up the check switch and found contacts were blown.

Installed a new check switch making sure all the connecting wires go in the right places. The wiring diagram in the washer was very helpful in doing so since u dont want these wires reversed. Adjusted the plunger which operates the check switches when the lid is opened to make sure it is not over or under operating the switches. This is done by loosening the bolt holding down the check switch assembly and slidint the whole assembly forwards or backwards till the plunger has just enough push on the switches. This is done to avoid the plunger from exerting excessive pressure on the check switch and the safety switch in lid open or lid closed position. (both switches are operated by the same plunger according to the lid position)

Closed panel cover and plugged the washer in. There u go, it was alive again!
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