Models > GLWN2800D1WS

GLWN2800D1WS General Electric Washer

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This is a single tub dampening strap for a washer. It is recommended to replace all 4 tub dampening straps at the same time, to ensure even wear. This part supports the tub and minimizes vibration by ...
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This clip fits inside the control knobs for your laundry machines, and helps to securely fasten the knob to the shaft, which allows you to easily turn the knob to select the correct settings. This is ...
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This plastic clip is a genuine OEM part, used to help connect the timer knob to the shaft on your washer. If the clip has become damaged it will need to be replaced. The clip is found on the backside ...
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This is a genuine OEM drain hose for your top-load washing machine. It is made with a flexible and corrugated black material, and measures 57-inches in length. The purpose of the drain hose is to move...
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This is an authentic agitator for your washer, responsible for moving clothes inside the tub. Please note, it does not come with the fabric dispenser, so you will need to either transfer the old one t...
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$16.73
If your washer is leaking when it is filling or agitating, you may need to replace the tub seal. The tub seal is found between the transmission and the outer tub in your washing machine. This genuine ...
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This clip holds the drain hose to the back of the washer.
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This is a 6-rib washer drive belt. It is sourced directly from the original manufacturer and constructed with a durable Poly V material. This part connects the drive motor to the drive system that tur...
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If the control knob on your dryer has become damaged, it can make it difficult to advance through the different settings. If you need a replacement, this is a genuine OEM control knob, which is gray i...
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$14.41
This split ring is two inches in diameter.
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In Stock
$21.97
This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. If your hub nut is stripped or damaged, it may need to be replaced. T...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for GLWN2800D1WS

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Leaking
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Will not agitate
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Will Not Start
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Will not drain
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No hot or cold water
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Marks left on clothes
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Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
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Spins slowly
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Burning smell
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Shaking and Moving
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Noisy
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Touchpad does not respond
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
  • Customer:
    Brian from Millerplace, NY
  • Parts Used:
    WH12X10334
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
washing machine would not go through all cycles or agitate
After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.
225 of 284 people found this instruction helpful.
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  • Customer:
    Anthonie from Beale AFB, CA
  • Parts Used:
    WH41X10096, WH16X513
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Wrench set
Old Hose Had A Leak
First I removed the screws that held the hose drain hose clip in place. Removed the damaged hose. Placed the new drain hose clip at the end of the new drain hose. Re-inserted back in hole, pushed in hose to necessary depth then tighted screws, Very easy and painless.
129 of 146 people found this instruction helpful.
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  • Customer:
    jon from barry, IL
  • Parts Used:
    WH01X10302
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
broken drive belt
To diagnose, first I unhooked the washer: power, water supply, and drain pipe. I then slid the washer out, laying it on its front. With nutdriver, I unscrewed two screws that held the other end of the drain tube and removed it completely. Then, again with the nutdriver removed 4 screws from the back near the legs, two in between the legs in the middle, and approx. 4 to 6 on the bottom. This let me pull the bottom off partially to access the motor area. (I did did not take the bottom completely off, only about 2/3 off and let it bend over, as it was flexible tin) The belt was broken. After receiving the new belt, I positioned it between the pulley and the motor and between the drum and the big pulley. Then I rotated the big pulley, pulling the belt onto it as I rotated. At the same time, as I rotated, I pulled the other end of the belt on to the little pulley. Once it was on, I would put pressure on it as I turned the pulley, to jump the belt to the appropriate grooves on the little pulley. Note: the replacement belt had been modified, so it had one less groove than the pulley. I would have known this if I had read the insert that came with the belt first! Anyway, this was not a problem, only a design change. Also it was important to start the belt on the inside, so if it slipped, you didnt loose your bite. Total diagnostic, repair, and reassembly time: 30 minutes plus or minus. I had read other online forums that said you had to loosen the motor, etc. And I do know some type of a belt installation tool was offered on line, but I got along fine with my installation method. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but not necessary.
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