GFW850SPN0RS General Electric Washer - Instructions

Sediment in your water will ruin these water inlet valves over time. It will reduce the amount of water filling the tub & will be very noisy making a squealing sound.

You’ll need a #2 Philips screwdriver & a standard set of pliers.

UNPLUG ELECTRIC SUPPLY FROM WASHER, TURN OFF WATER VALVES, THEN DISCONNECT WATER LINES & DRAIN HOSE. Pullout the detergent dispenser drawer. Remove 2 self-tapping screws and & 3 sheet metal screws. Slide front control panel to the right and let it rest on the machine. Remove 3 sheet metal screws to release the top lid cover. Pull the lid towards you and lift off. You’ll see water inlet valves in the left rear. Remove Philips head screws securing water inlet valve. Disconnect electrical wires from the water inlet valve solenoids. Using pliers, squeeze hose clamps and slide down small hoses. Pull off or twist the small hoses from the old water inlet valve. Install the small hoses onto the new Walter inlet valve and reconnect electrical harness to water inlet valve solenoids. Mount new water inlet valve, reconnect water supply hoses & turn on water supply. Check for any leaks before going any further. If no leaks, reinstall top lid & front panel. CONTROL PANEL IS DIFFICULT TO LINE UP WHEN SLIDING IT TO THE LEFT TO REINSTALL. LINE UP THE SLOTS FOR THE SCREWS WHEN REINSTALLING THE CONTROL PANEL. Refasten all screws and slide dispenser drawer back into dispenser pocket. Reconnect electrical supply. Washer should operate normally.

Followed YouTube instructions to lay the machine on its back, for easier access to the pipes and drain pump from the exposed bottom of the machine. Cleared the pipes first of a slight clog in the filter, turned the machine upright again, but it still did not drain. Laid the machine on its back again, after ordering a new drain pump, and fitted the new pump. Again, it did not work, but left the new pump in and ordered a new control board. Fitting a new control board involves detaching the control panel and cabinet top, which is not hard, then extracting the old control board. Taking off the wiring clips turned out to be significantly more difficult than re-connecting them when the new control board arrived. Fitting a new control board can easily be done with the machine upright. This time the draining did work, yay, and the washer is now fully functional again.

The first thing to get is a baking sheet/pan and a bucket. You'll want to get it as close to the drain as possible. Be ready for ALOT of water to be in there. Ease it out and dump the water into the bucket until it's all out. Next you'll have to prop up the front of the machine at least 4 or 5 inches. You'll need pliers to loosen the hose clamp. There's only 4 screws so it's pretty easy, but you'll only be able to see the 2 in front. The other 2 you'll have to feel your way thru it.

Disassemble according to instructions then remove pump...my only issue was I ordered the pump and paid $11.95 for t
2 to 3 days shipping. I didn't get the part until the following Saturday which was like 6 to 7 days...horrible delivery

I'd recommend a second set of hand for the repair. First we unplugged the washer. We removed the top panel of the washer using a Phillips head screwdriver. We disconnected all hoses. Then un-screwed the existing valve from the back of the machine and removed all clamps and hoses from the old valve. We then reversed the process for the valve install (attached hoses, attached to the machine, etc.) We then ran a test cycle to check for leaks. We then closed everything up and our alert and noise went away.