Models > WCCB1030HW

WCCB1030HW General Electric Washer

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This is a single tub dampening strap for a washer. It is recommended to replace all 4 tub dampening straps at the same time, to ensure even wear. This part supports the tub and minimizes vibration by ...
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This is an authentic agitator for your washer, responsible for moving clothes inside the tub. Please note, it does not come with the fabric dispenser, so you will need to either transfer the old one t...
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This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
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$16.73
If your washer is leaking when it is filling or agitating, you may need to replace the tub seal. The tub seal is found between the transmission and the outer tub in your washing machine. This genuine ...
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Bolt not included. This part connects the transmission drive shaft to the agitator base.
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This part is a replacement socket rod support for your washer. The socket rod support is found at the top of the washer frame in the front part of the washer. It supports the suspension rod, so the ro...
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This part is the replacement inner tub base hub for your washer. It is made of metal and is approximately 15 inches in diameter. The inner tub base hub fits between the wash tub and the spin basket, a...
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This screw is sold individually.
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This part helps center and support the drum, transmission and motor assembly.
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This is a replacement screw for your washer. The screw has a hex head and is approximately 1 inch in length. The washer portion of this screw is approximately 1 inch in diameter. This part is sold ind...
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Also known as the gearcase or transmission. This part helps move the agitator back and forth during the wash cycle. New shifter mounting holes are NOT threaded, use original self tapping screws to in...
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This part is the replacement belt install tool for your dryer. It comes with two round plastic halves of the tool that are held together with an o-ring (also included). To use the tool, position the t...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for WCCB1030HW

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Will not drain
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Fixing
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Will not agitate
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Fixing Fixing Fixing
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Leaking
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Fixing Fixing Fixing
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Marks left on clothes
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Shaking and Moving
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Burning smell
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Fixing
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
douglas from danby, VT
Parts Used:
WH23X10030
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Socket set
machine would not drain all other functions seemed o.k
Aside from getting the wet clothes and most of the water out,the toughest part of the job for me was to figure out how to get inside the machine. I nearly wrecked the thing trying to lift the top panel. After some frustration I removed the star-type screws on back of the control panel and found, tucked away neatly, the documentation/parts list complete with instructions on how to remove the FRONT panel. Once I got inside it was easy to locate the pump. I ran the drain cycle for a moment to see if the pump turned at all. The original had an exposed fan so it was easy to see that indeed the motor was not turning. I inspected all the hose and electrical connections to make sure I had the tools I'd need and the savvy to replace the part(s) if I could locate them. I'm not much of a web-head, so I was a little surprised when I typed G.E. appliances and the search took me to partselect.com where I was pretty much coached through the procedure before I even ordered the part. The box arrived ahead of schedule (yay) and when I looked at the pump it didn't look much like the one I was replacing. But then I realized it was the same thing just ten years more advanced. I used a small pair of vise grips to pinch and lock the pipe clamps open. I know there is a plier made for this, but... Anyways, after loosening the clamps and sliding them away from the pump I pulled the hoses off and let the last of the rinse water still in them run down my shirt sleeve to my elbow. (optional, not recommended) Thus refreshed I then rummaged through my socket set and found what I needed to remove the 2 sheet metal mounting screws and disconnected the 2 power leads. I removed the faulty pump and proudly showed it to my wife. Unimpressed, she asked how much longer. I quickly reversed the procedure to install the new unit and confidently piled in a load of laundry. The cycle completed just fine and has done so since. I will and have recommmended partselect.com to friends and will use it again for sure.
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Customer:
Michael from Itasca, IL
Parts Used:
WH43X10034
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Blades broken off agitator
Simply put hands, one under each side of the agitaror and pulled up. The part snapped off very easily. I then placed the new part in the tub and pressed down. Extremely easy, should have done it sooner!
69 of 81 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Michael from Alexandria, IN
Parts Used:
WH23X10030, WH1X2727
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Pump and Motor Assembly began leaking and then seized.
First I removed the front panel by prying it forward with a Screw driver away from the side panels at the top (wrap a shop rag around the Screw driver to keep from scratching the paint). Once you have the panel pried loose at the top ... lean it forward until you can lift it off the tab type hooks at the bottom.
I next unplugged the wires from the motor. The orginal motor had three wires ... two on top and one on the left side. The one on the side is a ground wire for the open frame motor. The replacement motor is sealed and does not require this wire. Just leave it unplugged when the new one is installed.
Next I removed the inlet hose that attaches to the back of the pump. Remove it by loosening the hose clamp and removing it from the bottom of the tub, leaving it attached to the back of the pump. It is much easier to remove and transfer to the new pump once it is out rather than fight with the spring type clamp on the back of the pump in the close quarters inside the machine.
Next I removed the outlet hose from the top of the pump. Squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up and off the pump.
Now I just used a Socket to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the inside front of the machine and removed the assembly.
I now removed the inlet hose from the back of the old pump. Just squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up the hose and off the pump. Transfer the hose to the back of the new pump reusing the same clamp.
I now bolted the assembly back into the machine, reattached the outlet hose to the pump, and then reattached inlet hose to the bottom of the tub. All that was left to do was plug in the two wires to the top front of the pump motor (as I mentioned earlier, leave the side wire from the old pump unplugged as it is not needed on the new one). I then ran the machine for a few moments with the front off to check for any leaks and then put the front panel back on.
The whole replacement cost about $50 and took barely 15 min. from start to finish. The machine now works perfectly.
51 of 56 people found this instruction helpful.
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