Models > FWTR425RHS0

FWTR425RHS0 Frigidaire Washer

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Manuals & Guides for FWTR425RHS0

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The shock absorber kit is used for front load washers and includes 2 dual-stage shock absorbers, 1 spare shock mounting pin, and 4 locking nuts. These shock absorbers keep the washer from vigorous sha...
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Designed for front-loading washers, this drain pump assembly removes water during the drain cycle to keep your machine running smoothly. It’s compatible with a variety of models from brands like Frigi...
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$23.05
This screw is designed to fit washers and dryers. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and accurate application of screw in your tool.
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This is a drive belt for your washing machine. This part spins the basket in your appliance by connecting the drive motor to the drive system. You will need to replace the drive belt if your pumps are...
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$24.10
This is a screw and it is used with a variety of home appliances. It is less than 1/2 an inch long, and is #8-18 x 3/8. This part is a pan head, sheet metal, screw. It is made of metal.
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$56.05
Also known as a Drum Baffle. Sold individually.
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This washer shock absorber mounting pin is a small but essential fastener that secures the shock absorber to the outer tub of a front-load washing machine. By holding the shock absorber firmly in plac...
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If your front-load washer is leaking or making strange noises, the door bellow might be the issue. This flexible seal sits between the door and the drum, keeping water inside while letting the tub spi...
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This part is between the front and rear outer tubs.
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The seal and bearing are included and are not sold separately.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for FWTR425RHS0

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Leaking
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Will not drain
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Shaking and Moving
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Will not agitate
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Spins slowly
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Spinning Issues
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Marks left on clothes
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Noisy
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Burning smell
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Not draining
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Customer:
Douglas from Medical Lake, WA
Parts Used:
5304485917
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Both vibration shock absorbers broken
removed 2 screws and removed top access cover. removed 2 screws and removed front access cover. removed 4 retaining pins (one with nammer and punch because it was stuck) connected lower ends of new shocks with plastic pins, extended each shock to slip fit and connected upper ends to wash tub mounts. Reinstalled panels. I wish I could sa y that it all went well from there but......when the shocks broke, apparently the hit the motor took was enough to cause an electronic failure of the speed cycle control chip. Now Im waiting for that part.
180 of 195 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Scott from Riverview, FL
Parts Used:
131618500, 131525500
Difficulty Level:
Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Drum making loud noise
Turned out drum brackets were corroded, so drum and shell-rear/brg and gasket needed replacing

1. Disconnect power and water lines
2. Remove rear and top panels
3. Remove control knobs, Assembly, soap dispenser, and Assembly cons frame/trim
4. Remove all screws from control panel mounting bracket (panel-cont mtg wing bend), disconnect easy wires to get to so you can flip it on it's edge when the time comes - no need to remove completely
5. Disconnect hoses running to shell-rear/brg
6. Remove the motor (motor-Sole) and belt
7. Place foam pad and/or jack with pad on it underneath shell (it's gonna be very heavy when you remove it - two men or a jack required)
8. Lift and remove the two spring/sleeves that support the shell.
9. Remove two level-shocks below shell or at a minimum remove one of the pins on each
10. Remove Spring boot from bellow
11. Lower and remove entire shell
12. Remove the weight, upper back from the rear shell and the counterweights from the front shell (can leave front weights if you want to, but probably easier to work with without them on. Note: be careful, these all crack/chip very easily)
13. Remove the screws that hold the rear shell to the front shell
14. Remove the pulley screw and pulley (may take a little wiggling or tapping with rubber mallet to loosen)
15. Separate the rear shell from front shell.
16. Remove the drum from the rear shell (may also require some wiggkling/tapping with rubber mallet)

Note: I did this from memory, so probably missed some steps - just use your parts manual to ensure you know what you're looking at and it will help you through the process.

Good luck. I figure I saved about $700 to $1200 since the estimated repair costs were so high, I would have simply had to buy a new washer.
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Customer:
Charles from Raleigh, NC
Parts Used:
137108000
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
drain pump motor had seized as result of foreign objects
After turning off water, disconnecting power, and sucking water out of the tub and drain hose with a shop vac, I removed the front kick panel (took out two sheet metal screws). Then I removed two mounting screws from the pump assembly, and disconnected two hose clamps (inlet and outlet hoses) with a pair of pliers. Very simple, very easy . The pain in the fanny came when I tried to reattach the hoses. The hose clamps apparently require either a special tool or a technique I'm not familiar with. I finally tossed them and purchased two standard screw and band hose clamps which made the final connections a breeze. The surprise came when I found that the motor had seized because of a pair of tweezers that had somehow worked into the motor impeller. Free of tweezers and coins, the new motor works great! To quote another one of your contributors: wife happy!
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