Models > TAA800 P75751-7W

TAA800 P75751-7W Amana Washer

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This washer is 3/4 inches in diameter.
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This metal retaining ring is well under an inch long. Use it for your Maytag brand clothes washer or your clothes dryer.
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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$11.80
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
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This is used to start your washer once the desired water level is reached.
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Sold Individually. This adjustable leveling leg comes with a stop nut.
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This black lid switch assembly comes complete with a bracket, two switches, and a fuse. An open fuse might indicate that the lid switch is bad. The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spin...
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This v-style drive belt is thirty-two and a half inches long and half of an inch wide.
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This front cover spring retaining clip is not quite an inch long. It is made entirely of metal and is used for some washing machines.
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$11.12
This hose clamp is sold individually.
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$8.06
Sold Individually.
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This hose can handle hot or cold water and is five feet long.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for TAA800 P75751-7W

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Noisy
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Leaking
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Will Not Start
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Will not agitate
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Will not drain
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Burning smell
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Spins slowly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Suleman from Canoga Park, CA
Parts Used:
WP207166
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench set
Washer was dead and would not turn on
Well the washer died and would not turn on in the middle of a wash cycle. Absolutely dead. I disconnected it from power and opened up the front panel on which all the control switches and knobs are mounted. This is removed by unscrewing 4 screws at the top of the washer.

Checked the fuse, and found blown. Replaced the fuse, cl osed the panel and plugged it in. Still not working. Checked the Check switches and found the Check Switch really limp. Checked with Digital Multimeter and found no continuity at either position. Unscrewed the check switch. Removal and re inspection with DMM of the check switch confirmed it was bad. Opened up the check switch and found contacts were blown.

Installed a new check switch making sure all the connecting wires go in the right places. The wiring diagram in the washer was very helpful in doing so since u dont want these wires reversed. Adjusted the plunger which operates the check switches when the lid is opened to make sure it is not over or under operating the switches. This is done by loosening the bolt holding down the check switch assembly and slidint the whole assembly forwards or backwards till the plunger has just enough push on the switches. This is done to avoid the plunger from exerting excessive pressure on the check switch and the safety switch in lid open or lid closed position. (both switches are operated by the same plunger according to the lid position)

Closed panel cover and plugged the washer in. There u go, it was alive again!
109 of 124 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Richard from Houston, TX
Parts Used:
WP22001682
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
The washer wouldn't start unless you slammed the lid shut.
I suspected the lid switch right away. Where I went wrong was in thinking that I had to get to it from below. After going to all the trouble of removing the front panel and detaching the top panel, I discovered that it was located inside the control section at the top of the appliance. It only took a few minutes to remove four screws and gain access to the old switch assembly and swap it out with the new one. One thing to note; the new switch assembly has to be set in exactly the right place along a slotted channel in order for both contacts to be activated properly. It's not difficult to find the right spot, but you have to do it consciously.
84 of 99 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
John from Milton, PA
Parts Used:
WP28808
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Frayed V-belt
VERY EASY!!!
SAFETY FIRST-Always unplug the appliance.
Use 8mm socket to remove front panel screws. Loosened up two hose clamps connected to the pump and removed both lines (Hoses contain water, use a towel) which is located underneath the motor. Disconnect motor electrical connector on the left side of the motor. With socket, r emove 4 mounting bracket screws that secure the motor and pump assembly. Pull back the tension/idler pulley to loosen belt off the main pulley to the washer drum. Tilt and pull out motor/pump assembly. Underneath the pump, use star-bit to remove the pump from motor assembly to remove the belt. Install new belt on motor pulley (Good time to check for debris or anything restricing free movement of pump) and re-install pump. Install the motor/pump assembly and loosely secure the motor/pump assembly. Place the belt onto the motor pulley and pull back the tensioner/idler pulley to allow slack of belt to be placed on washer drum pulley. Put the belt on the lip of the drum pulley and rotate while pulling back the tensioner/idler pulley until the belt is seated on the groove of the drum pulley. Tighten the motor/pump assembley. Re-attach the 2 hoses and tighten down the clamps. Re-connect the electrical connector to the motor...Don't forget to plug in the washer and secure the front panel...Piece 'O cake, you're done! About 15 minutes to do the job. Much like changing a belt on most vehicles.
60 of 67 people found this instruction helpful.
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