Models > ATW4475XQ0

ATW4475XQ0 Admiral Washer

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Diagrams for ATW4475XQ0

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This is an OEM direct drive motor coupling, which provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. This is the newer version of this part, made with new metal sleeves for ...
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This suspension spring is a genuine OEM replacement part for a variety of washers and washer-dryer combos. The primary purpose of the suspension spring is to support the outer tub and keep the tub ste...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement clutch assembly for your washing machine. A clutch assembly, also known as a clutch or a washer clutch, is responsible for spinning the tub during the spin cycle. If ...
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This bolt is a genuine OEM replacement part, used to secure the agitator in your washing machine. Overtime the bolt can become worn out due to the vibrations of the washer, and will need to be replace...
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On the lid on your washing machine there is a pin that engages with the lid switch. This works by telling the machine that the lid is closed which then allows for the washer to start. If your washer i...
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The thrust spacer is a genuine OEM part that is more commonly known as a retainer ring. The spacer is made of white plastic and measures approximately 2.5 inches in diameter. This part is found in bet...
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This agitator repair kit comes with a long cam, a thrust spacer and four dogs ears (agitator cogs). This repair kit is used to move the upper agitator and it connects the base of the agitator with th...
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This part is used to help control and balance the water temperature flowing in to the washer tub.
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This package of pads contains three tub wear pads.
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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Also known as Main Outer Tub Seal. This part helps to prevent leaking from the bottom of the tub.
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Sold Individually.
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Jerold
March 3, 2024
Loss of spin cycle
For model number ATW4475XQ0
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Hello Jerold, thank you for your question. A clutch assembly, also known as a clutch FIX334641 or a washer clutch, is responsible for spinning the tub during the spin cycle. We also have a video for your view for installation information. We hope to hear from you soon.

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Jerold
March 8, 2024
Leaking between cycle's
For model number ATW4475XQ0
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Hello Jerold, Thank you for writing. We suggest checking the Centerpost Gasket for wear or damage. We hope this helps!

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Jerold
17 days ago
Washing machine is leaking from center. Already replaced center post gasket already and has a new clutch. Also checked to make sure there was no other leaks and that all clamps were connected.
For model number ATW4475XQ0
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Hi Jerold, Thank you for choosing us to help. We suggest now checking the Water Pump. Look for evidence of a leak and any wear or damage such as a crack in the housing. Good luck!

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Common Problems and Symptoms for ATW4475XQ0

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Will not agitate
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Leaking
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Spins slowly
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Will Not Start
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Will not drain
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Burning smell
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No hot or cold water
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Spinning Issues
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Shaking and Moving
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Water Filling Issues
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Noisy
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Touchpad does not respond
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Marks left on clothes
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Lid or door won’t close
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Customer:
Jeff from Wayne, NJ
Parts Used:
285753A
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
No movement from Basket & agitator
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum p.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
1089 of 1168 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Andrew from SLC, UT
Parts Used:
285785
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
spin cycle did not engage
researched potential causes, found cluch dust under the washer and determined that it wouldn't engage because clutch was too worn. ordered the assembly, removed agitator from inside the tub as it is connected to the gear shaft, turned washer on it's back for access to motor, unattached the direct drive water pump from the motor drive, unb olted the 3 gearcase mounting bolts and took the entire gearcase, shaft, motor, etc... together, out from under the washtub. the clutch slides off the gearshaft with a little fidgeting and the new assembly is easily installed where the previous was. put everything back together... then... spin spin! worked perfectly
487 of 520 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Clint from Kansas City, KS
Parts Used:
WP8318084
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Washer wouldn't run
I removed the two screws on the back of the control panel. The control panel then flips back. The switch is on the left side. To remove the switch, I first detached the wire to the control panel and unscrewed the grounding wire. The new switch drops right in. I had a little trouble getting it in until I realized the washer lid had to be open. A little awkward but once it's in you can shut the lid and then I reattached the wire from the control panel and screwed in the grounding wire. Pretty easy. $20 for the part (with shipping) and 15 minutes. Way cheaper than a repairman.
325 of 366 people found this instruction helpful.
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