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LTG5243DQ3
LTG5243DQ3 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo
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Manuals & Guides for LTG5243DQ3
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$19.63
The dryer thermal fuse, also sometimes referred to as the thermal cut off or temperature fuse, is a 2 by 1/2-inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that halts the flow of electricity to the motor circu...
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$27.87
This is an OEM direct drive motor coupling, which provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. This is the newer version of this part, made with new metal sleeves for ...
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$30.89
This OEM kit comes with two ignition coils (one three-terminal boost/hold coil, and one two-terminal secondary coil). Usually only one of them burns out, but you should replace them as a set as both h...
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$5.04
This kit includes two door strikes, and three door catches, to service doors that have one or two catches. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, while the catch is mounted on the dryer door....
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$48.76
The direct drive water pump is used in washing machines that do not have belts, to remove water from the tub during the drain cycle. It is located on the motor and attached by two clips. The drain pum...
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$14.37
This is a rear drum support roller kit for your dryer. The 2 rollers come with 4 tri-rings, and 1 palnut. We recommend that you replace both rollers at once. This kit stabilizes the drum cylinder, whi...
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There are many symptoms that may indicate an issue with your water inlet valve. These can include your washer not filling with water, it will not stop filling, the washer is leaking, or it is both fil...
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$27.58
This is a genuine OEM replacement clutch assembly for your washing machine. A clutch assembly, also known as a clutch or a washer clutch, is responsible for spinning the tub during the spin cycle. If ...
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$17.64
The idler pulley is found in your dryer and provides tension to the belt in order to rotate the drum. If your clothes are taking a long time to dry, the machine is noisy while operating, or the dryer ...
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$40.54
This is a genuine OEM replacement igniter kit for your gas-heated clothes dryer. The silicon carbide igniter is used to light the gas that creates the heat in order to dry your clothes. If your dryer ...
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$13.42
This small but mighty OEM piece is called a tri-ring and is used to support the drum roller shaft and the idler pulley shaft in your dryer. It helps to provide a tight seal between components by evenl...
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$7.04
This bolt is a genuine OEM replacement part, used to secure the agitator in your washing machine. Overtime the bolt can become worn out due to the vibrations of the washer, and will need to be replace...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for LTG5243DQ3
Viewing 22 of 22Leaking
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Noisy
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Will not agitate
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Door won’t close
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Spins slowly
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Will not drain
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
No hot or cold water
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How to fix it
Burning smell
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How to fix it
Not Heating
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How to fix it
Will Not Start
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How to fix it
Too hot
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Spinning Issues
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Won’t Start
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Leaks water
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Touchpad does not respond
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Door Pops Open
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Marks left on clothes
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How to fix it
Shaking and Moving
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How to fix it
Drum Not Spinning
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How to fix it
Lid or door won’t close
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Water Filling Issues
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Heat stays on after drum has stopped
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
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- Customer:
- ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
- Parts Used:
- WP3392519
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer was working, but no heat.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of ... Read more needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of ... Read more needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
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- Customer:
- Jeff from Wayne, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 285753A
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
No movement from Basket & agitator
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum ... Read more p.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum ... Read more p.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
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- Customer:
- Dana from Grassvally, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP3392519
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
No heat but would run otherwise
Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.
Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.
The actual repair was quite simple and did ... Read more n't take but 15-20 minutes.
Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.
The actual repair was quite simple and did ... Read more n't take but 15-20 minutes.
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