LT4900XMW2 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.

My washing machine became slower and slower to fill over the past several months. It also made a loud squeeling noise during fill-up (all this was on the cold water side only). I removed the old water inlet valve and tore it down, expecting to find corrosion or trash that was blocking the valve from opening completely. Turned out to that the rubber diaphragm / seal was permanently "kinked", making it difficult to open the valve. The hot water seal was fine, but to make sure, I swapped them and re-assembled the washer. Now the problem was with the hot water, confirming what I thought. I ordered a new water inlet valve on Monday night and received it Wednesday! Installed it within 30 minutes and it works perfectly now. I am very pleased with PartSelect.com. I will definitely be a repeat customer, but hopefully it won't be anytime soon. ;)

I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!

This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.

To discover what the problem was, I intially tested the inlet valve by blowing into both sides - discovering that the cold side was stuck in the open position. The hardest part was removing the back of the machine. First, you unscrew the top plastic part which contains the controllers by phillips head on either side. Then you pop the clips out with a large slot screwdriver, then at the bottom, a nutdriver or large slot screwdriver there are two nuts to remove. The valve itself took a small nutdriver and pliers to remove the hose. Took less than 20 mintues to complete repair. Washing works like new now.

I took everything apart and put in the new inlet valve. Tried to run the washer and it was still not stopping when filling. I looked more into it and the tube that comes up from the wash basin to the load size selector switch was disconnected and that was the real problem. If this happens to you, I suggest first looking under the control panel at the clear tube and ensuring that it is connected to the switch. Then if that is connected it is probably the inlet valve. There are helpful installation videos that can be found on the part select website that I would recommend looking at before taking things apart because it will make it much easier.

-unplugged appliance
-removed lint trap
-removed 2 lint trap shute screws with phillips screwdriver
-popped open top of appliance with standard screwdriver by applying pressure at each front corner so that it could be tilted up to access actuator switch on right side of door
-removed 2 actuator switch screws, located on upper right side of laundry door, with phillips screwdriver (screws are accessed from outside of door frame not through appliance top).
-discarded broken actuator spring (accessed from open appliance top)
-replaced new actuator spring
-replaced 2 actuator switch screws
-closed top
-replaced 2 lint trap shute screws
-replaced lint trap
-plugged in appliance
-tested for operation
-kissed by happy wife

After looking on the website for advice I walked throught the simple steps of disassembling the front, removing the drum, removed the back, disconnected the wire harness. Then removed the blower housing in the back. The blower, mounted on the back side of the motor was very tight. I used a pipe wrench wedged in place and help by my 10 year old Grand-daughter while I used an adjustable wrench to turn the shaft on the front of the motor. Spun the blower off, removed the two clips holding the motor. Then reversed the process when I received the new motor. Care should be taken to avoid damaging the blower fan if a lot of pressure is required.

I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds to.....do it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks

replace lint filter with new part. Great service and quick delivery! Thanks!

use screwdriver topry plastic out plyers to pull out metal latch put new parts in

Very easy once I figured out how to open it up to see what was the matter.
1 Remove power.
2 Open the lint filter cover and remove the 2 Phillip screws.
3 Pry the front of the top cover up to separate the cover from the plastic clips that secure to the top front panel.
4 Remove the 2 nut screws securing the top of the front panel to each side cover.
5 Pull front panel out slightly to detach wiring from the cover switch.
6 Pull front panel straight up and set aside.
7 Remove drum belt from tensioner and motor pulley under the drum.
8 Remove drum by pulling it toward the front between the 2 sides.
9 Locate the 2 support rollers and their mounting shafts. Change the shafts at this point if they are worn. (Mine were OK)
10 Remove the support bracket from the shaft if present.
11 Remove the plastic triangular retainer from the shaft and slide the old wheel off of the shaft.
12 Clean the shaft from any bearing debris.
13 Replace the rollers and retainers.
14 Insert drum through the front side panels making sure the seal on the rear of the drum is centered around the opening and not folded inside the opening.
15 Place the belt on the drum and thread the belt through the tensioner and around the motor pulley.
16 Position the front cover on the lower clips on each of the sides.
17 Re-attach the 2 wires for the cover switch.
18 Pull the drum up so the opening on the drum and front cover align.
19 Screw together the side panels to the front panel using the 2 hex headed screws.
20 Check for binds by rotating the drum several times by hand.
21 Press the front of the top panel down toward the front panel to engage the plastic clips attaching the top to the front. Watch for the lint filter housing alignment as you push the top panel down.
22 Replace the 2 screws to attach the lint filter to the top cover.
23 Plug in machine and test.

Good luck, It s not as bad as it sounds.

The hot water worked fine on the washer. The cold water would sometimes work/fill the tub, but would only produce a trickle of water at other times.

There were 2 screws to remove at the top back of the washer (attaching the console) two nut screws at the bottom left and right and another bottom center. There were also two screws on front of the console attaching it to the top of the washer. All of those are easy to remove.

The water dispenser (this is the opaque plastic part that fills the tub) has two rigid/hard plastic tabs that hold it to the back of the washer. They were difficult to move/push into the slots to release. It is probably a better idea to push the water dispenser down a bit and jiggle it off the top of the tub then to try and slide those plastic attachments over and down out of the slots on the back of the washer. I spent the most time doing that than anything else.

Also do not forget to detach the rigid steel clips that hold the console on top of the washer, a standard screwdriver or pliers work fine.

Unscrewed (with socket wrench) the mounting plate for the water inlet valve and pulled off the electrical connectors. Had a bit of trouble holding the hose clamp and pulling out the nozzle, but got it. I used pliers for this, but think in retrospect a vice grip would have been easier.

Put the new part in (it came with an installation sheet, very easy to follow) and remounted/hooked everything back up again. Reattached the back of the washer, screwed everything back in and put the console back on the top and screwed that in. Remember to put the steel clips back in that you remove in the beginning, otherwise the console will be loose.

Attached the Hot water hose, then the cold, turned on the water connections from the house and plugged the washer back in.

After pushing it back into position, I turned it on using the cold setting. A big glob of gray sediment shot out and the cold water was gushing in a lot stronger than it ever did before. Hot water came in faster too.

It fixed the problem. Working great now.

Before ordering part, took the old valve out to make sure it looks similar to the one described online by Partselect. After ordering online, put things back together since I expected delivery would take 5-7 days. That night the water stopped dripping and has been OK ever since. I suspected that there was some rust in the electrical connections. By disconnecting and reconnecting the terminal, the electrical connection is better and water stopped dripping. Still keep the new part just in case (which came overnight after I ordered it).

First I disconnected power.

Next I turned off the hot and cold water supply hose bibs.

Once that's done, I pulled out the washing machine to get to the hose connections on the back of the machine, removed and drained the residual water in the hoses.

Note: Since the hoses were fairly new, I reused the supply hoses but replaced the rubber washers. However, if your hoses are older than a couple of years, it's cheap insurance to go ahead and replace since you're right there.

Next was to remove the two end caps of the control unit on top of the machine. This exposes the two screws that is then removed so that the control panel can rotate up and back.

Once the panel is open, I removed the single connector attached to the top of the machine. This leads to the lid open switch.

Followed by removing the two spring clips with the help of a flat blade screwdriver and pliers to keep the clips from flying off.

Once the clips are removed, the top/front shell of the washer is free to rotate foward. At this point, it can be removed or just laid to the side (forward).

This opens up the area to be serviced.

Disconnect the quick release wire connectors, taking note that the red connector is for the hot water control valve solenoid. disconnect the mix hose going to the tub from the valve by using pliers to disengage the hose clamp (catch the residual water with a sutable container). Then I removed the old valve assembly by removing the two screws holding the assembly to the back panel.

Follow the instructions enclosed with the part to preassemble and install the valve.

Reassemble by reversing the process. Check for leaks, test hot and cold water cycle and you're done.

It actually took me more time to gather my tools and pull out the washing machine than the actual replacement of the part!

Oh, by the way, I've purchased parts from PartSelect.com many times. Each and every time has been an outstanding experience. Quality parts, fast shipping and great prices! It's always been a pleasure!