MLXG62RBW0 Tappan Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.

carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.

Unpluged dryer. Removed the top of dryer by pushing in a retaining clip on both sides of the front lip with a screw driver. Remove the two screws on both sides of front panel. These screws are square head or phillips #2. Unplugged the wiring harness to front panel (make sure power has been disconnected). Support drum and lean front panel away from dryer body. Front panel will pull off of tabs at bottom. The old drum glide is fiberous and hard to remove. I removed most of it with the pliers, but had to carefully scrape the balance of the glide off with the wood chisel. The adhesive that comes with the repair part has an acetone base, so I used acetone (or you could use nail polish remover) to remove the old adhesive. Once the acetone has dried, I applied an 1/8" snaking bead of adhesive to the front panel. There is more adhesive in the tube than you need so do not use too much. Make sure that you get adhesive as close to the base of the lower seal as you can. Follow directions on adhesive tube and then attach the glide. I let it set up for about 30 seconds. Place the front panel back on the tabs of the dryer. Carefully lift the drum an fit it on the front panel and insert the two screws holding the panel to the base. Reconnect the wiring harness and make sure it is not in contact with the drum. Check to make sure that all of the electrical connectors on the timer are still in place. Reassemble the dryer. Reconnect power.

First, I removed the top panel which is held on at the front by pressure clips. Second, I removed the entire front panel which entailed removing 2 screws and 2 wire couplings. Third, I removed the 3 screws on the inside center of the drum which turned out to be unnecessary. Fourth, I slid the drum forward in order to access the rear bearing. Lastly, I replaced the entire bearing assembly including the shaft, bracket, bearing, grounding ball and clip. Again, probably not needed but I had ordered the parts in advance in preparation for the worst.

First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and removed the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.

The Lid Lock Assembly came super fast! The install would have been flawless, but the "pre-drilled" holes on the new Lid Lock Assembly were way to small. We found that out after we had reconnected the wires and gotten it into place. Aside from that small set back, the install went great! This repair is definitey not one that you would need to pay a repair person to do!

The problem with my very old washer was that the tension spring had broken long ago and I had jerry-rigged it in place with a cable tie. It would work, but you had to give the drum a spin by hand when it hit the spin the cycle. This probelm further caused the premature wearing of the drive belt, due to slippage. I ordered both a new spring and a new belt. Upon their arrival, I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lowered it off and out of the way. The old, worn belt was very easy to remove, as there was very little tension on it. Next I attempted to remove the washer that holds the idle arm on. It is in a very awkward spot, and it appears the the washing machine is sort of built around it. I bent it gradually with locking pliers until I could force it off with the blade of a flat screwdriver. Then the idler arm was easy to lower of its axle by twisting the drum a bit and pulling it to one side. I put the new spring into the idler arm, making sure the plastic bushing was in place and replaced the arm. I then repositioned to belt and replaced the front panel. It works great now.

Removed fastening screw and Agitator. Removed and replaced Agitator Drive Block. Replaced and fastened Agitator. Done in 5 min.

Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.

Very happy camper here!

pulled old knob off. pushed new knob on.

Unplugged machine.
Turned off water supply.

Removed front panel.
Pushed in on belt tensioner, removed old belt, replaced with new belt.

Used pry bar to lift the base assembly high enough off the snubber to remove it. Partially propped it with 2x4 wood scraps.

Used bent clothes hangar to remove old snubber ring, to protect my hands.

Replaced snubber, arrow pointing up.
Carefully lowered base assembly.

Replaced front panel.
Turned water back on, plugged back in, washing machine no longer 'walks'.

Remember to check the washer against a level if you moved the machine.

removed front body panel (2 screws at bottom and pulled down panel), then used pliers to squeeze pinch clamps and pull back the two hoses off the pump. then removed the two pump clips that secure the pump in place and used screw driver to gently pry the old pump off the motor shaft, under that was the rubber pump slinger which was pulled off the motor shaft. The next step was to sand the rust off the motor shaft and apply some vasoline to lubricate the shaft and install the new pump slinger and pump on the motor shaft,put the pump clips back on and push the hoses on the new pump and slide the pinch clamps back into place, run test to check for leaks then re-install the front body panel.

removed upper cover, removed front cover, tested switch with digital VOM, removed and replaced!
2 screws, 4 wires! saved over $100 when compared to a bill from a repair service!

fast shipping too! will recommend others!

I removed the broken door latch & strike with pliers. Then I pushed the new parts into place

Let me start by saying that I am a stay-at-home mommy of 2-year-old twin girls so if I can do this, you can too.
1. I disconntected the dryer from the outlet.
2. Then I had to pop open the top of the dryer. I had to wedge a screwdriver underneath the top lid (towards the front corners) in order to open the top.
3. Looking into the dryer from the top I could see a few screws I needed to remove that were along the sides of the drum. After removing the screws, I was able to remove the front panel of the dryer exposing the drum.
4. The seal that I needed to repair was located on the front panel. I had to remove the old seal (I had to scrap to get some of it removed).
5. I applied the adhesive then attached the upper and lower seals.
6. I let the seals dry for a few minutes then replaced the ront panel. In replacing the panel, the seals need to fit around the drum. You need to be careful in fitting the drum so that the seals remain intact and not pushed out of place.
7. Then, I simply replaced the screws to the front panel and secured the top lid back in place.
FYI: I did have a problem with the lower seal, in placing the drum over the seals, the lower was pushed out of place without me knowing. A few days later, the dryer was making a noise and clothes were still getting caught. After opening the dryer and examining the seal, I needed to reattach the seal. I was out of the adhesive but was able to use Gorilla glue (can withstand any temperature once it is dry). Works good as new now.
FYI: I also have to add that the actual replacing of the seals did not actually take 2 hours but since the dryer was opened, I took advantage and thoroughly cleaned the inside of the dryer.

The top of the agitator broke off so the washing machine was no longer spinning the agitator. Took the nut off the top of the agitator and there was a steel sleeve inside that had to come out of the agitator and be put into the new agitator so it would sit correctly on the "tower" and spin. It took me awhile to get the sleeve out of the old agitator but once I did it slipped right into the new agitator and then the new agitator bolted right onto the "tower". It only cost me $40.00 for a new part so I'm sure I saved myself around 100 dollars or more by doing it myself.