Models > MGT3800XW0

MGT3800XW0 Maytag Washer Dryer Combo

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Diagrams for MGT3800XW0

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This is an OEM direct drive motor coupling, which provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. This is the newer version of this part, made with new metal sleeves for ...
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This thermostat is an OEM replacement part for a dryer. It is sold individually. It measures approximately 2-inches by 1.5-inches, is black and silver, and constructed of plastic and metal material. Y...
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This OEM kit comes with two ignition coils (one three-terminal boost/hold coil, and one two-terminal secondary coil). Usually only one of them burns out, but you should replace them as a set as both h...
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This suspension spring is a genuine OEM replacement part for a variety of washers and washer-dryer combos. The primary purpose of the suspension spring is to support the outer tub and keep the tub ste...
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Often referred to as a dryer belt tension pulley wheel, this idler pulley is an OEM approved replacement part for a variety of dryer models. The idler pulley puts tension on the drive belt, and if the...
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This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
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$21.95
This is a single dryer drum belt that measures 93.5 inches. The belt rotates the dryer drum and is a common wear part that can become brittle over time. It can also stretch and change shape, so keep t...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement clutch assembly for your washing machine. A clutch assembly, also known as a clutch or a washer clutch, is responsible for spinning the tub during the spin cycle. If ...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement igniter kit for your gas-heated clothes dryer. The silicon carbide igniter is used to light the gas that creates the heat in order to dry your clothes. If your dryer ...
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This small but mighty OEM piece is called a tri-ring and is used to support the drum roller shaft and the idler pulley shaft in your dryer. It helps to provide a tight seal between components by evenl...
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This bolt is a genuine OEM replacement part, used to secure the agitator in your washing machine. Overtime the bolt can become worn out due to the vibrations of the washer, and will need to be replace...
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This genuine OEM part is a radiant flame sensor for your gas dryer. It is used to determine when the temperature of the igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas. Once the igniter is hot enough, it allo...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for MGT3800XW0

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Noisy
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Will not agitate
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Leaking
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Spins slowly
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Will not drain
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Too hot
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Door won’t close
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Burning smell
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Will Not Start
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Not Heating
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Marks left on clothes
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Spinning Issues
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Shaking and Moving
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Drum Not Spinning
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Won’t Start
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Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
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No hot or cold water
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Touchpad does not respond
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Heat stays on after drum has stopped
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Lid or door won’t close
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Customer:
Jeff from Wayne, NJ
Parts Used:
285753A
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
No movement from Basket & agitator
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum p.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
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Customer:
Andrew from SLC, UT
Parts Used:
285785
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
spin cycle did not engage
researched potential causes, found cluch dust under the washer and determined that it wouldn't engage because clutch was too worn. ordered the assembly, removed agitator from inside the tub as it is connected to the gear shaft, turned washer on it's back for access to motor, unattached the direct drive water pump from the motor drive, unb olted the 3 gearcase mounting bolts and took the entire gearcase, shaft, motor, etc... together, out from under the washtub. the clutch slides off the gearshaft with a little fidgeting and the new assembly is easily installed where the previous was. put everything back together... then... spin spin! worked perfectly
487 of 520 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Gary from Haverhill, NH
Parts Used:
279834
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer ran but would not heat
PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.
390 of 439 people found this instruction helpful.
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