Models > 41797864790

41797864790 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo

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This ball-and-socket style bearing kit is used in your dryer to support the rear of the drum as it tumbles through the dry cycle. The bearing attaches on the inside of the rear panel of the dryer cabi...
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If your dryer is noisy while tumbling, you may need to replace the drum glides. This genuine OEM part is found attached to the front panel of your dryer. It is used to reduce friction and allows the d...
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The drum support bearing is an authentic OEM replacement part for your dryer. The bearing is used to support the drum and allow it to rotate smoothly and quietly. If your dryer is excessively noisy wh...
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If your washer drum is not spinning, there may be an issue with your drive belt. The drive belt wraps around the motor pulley and helps the basket to spin. Other signs there are issues with the belt i...
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This belt helps rotate from the drive motor to the drum.
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This dryer lint screen is for laundry centers. Dryer lint screen captures lint and debris from the exhaust air flowing from the dryer. Follow the instructions in the owner's manual when installing this part.
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$62.67
This door catch is an authentic OEM replacement part for your dryer. This part holds the door strike and ensures that the door stays closed while your dryer is running. This prevents hot air or laundr...
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This part helps to keep the dryer running as quietly as possible.
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This coil ignition kit is used in dryers to open the gas valve when the dryer is on. This kit includes two coils. One is a two-wire secondary coil and the other is a three-wire booster coil. If your d...
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This drum bearing bracket is for dryers. Drum bearing bracket holds and supports the drum bearing
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This washing machine water inlet valve has two ports for water to enter.
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$16.13
"Male" piece of a dryer door closing mechanism.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 41797864790

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Noisy
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Marks left on clothes
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Leaking
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Door won’t close
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Will not agitate
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Burning smell
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Will not drain
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No hot or cold water
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Spins slowly
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Will Not Start
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Drum Not Spinning
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Not Heating
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Customer:
Frank from Boyertown, PA
Parts Used:
5303281153
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Loud Squeaking
1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum be lt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
333 of 349 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
rodney from fairfield bay, AR
Parts Used:
134511600
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
replace broken drive belt
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub p ulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.
276 of 308 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Rick from Walkerton, IN
Parts Used:
5303279394, 131862900, 131545101, 131219900
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.
1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.

2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the ag itator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.

3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.

4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.

5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.

6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.

The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy.
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