41761723510 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Frank from Boyertown, PA
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Loud Squeaking
1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Glenn from Fort Worth, TX
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153, 5303281153, 131825900, 5303281153, 131724301, 131168200
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Dryer squealed loudly
First, I removed the top panel which is held on at the front by pressure clips. Second, I removed the entire front panel which entailed removing 2 screws and 2 wire couplings. Third, I removed the 3 screws on the inside center of the drum which turned out to be unnecessary. Fourth, I slid the drum forward in order to access the rear bearing. Lastly, I replaced the entire bearing assembly including the shaft, bracket, bearing, grounding ball and clip. Again, probably not needed but I had ordered the parts in advance in preparation for the worst.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Timothy from Pensacola, FL
- Parts Used:
- 5303937183, 137513300
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Felt pulling apart and glide not secured
For the glide, I want to advise people that to replace the entire glide you need to order two front drum glide parts as each is only half.
First, unplug the dryer. Then, open the top so that you can get access to the work area. On each side of the inside front, there is a screw that connects the front panel to the side panels. Unscrew those screws and pull the front panel until it disconnects from the side panels. Be careful as there are wires that are secured to the bottom of the top inside lip of the front panel. One set of wires goes to the light bulb in the dryer door. You don't need to disconnect the wires, but be sure you don't damage the wires by pulling the front panel too far away from the dryer.
Once you have the front panel out of the way, you can see the front drum glide. In my case, one half was loose as the plastic plugs that pop into recesses to hold the glide in place had broken off. Remove the damaged glide section and replace it with the new section, popping the plastic plugs into the recesses. Don't be afraid to slap the glide to lock the plugs in place.
For the felt, I cut the part of the old felt that was pulling away from the front panel. I then used a flat-head screwdriver and wire brush to remove as much of the old adhesive as I could. Then, using the high-heat adhesive that came with the new felt, I put a generous amount on the front panel where the felt needed to go. I used a toothpick to spread the adhesive to get maximum area coverage. I let it set for a minute or two, and then placed the new felt. I used small clamps to keep the felt in place until the adhesive had time to bond. I only kept the clamps in place for 10 minutes.
Once I removed the clamps, I let the felt continue to adhere to the front panel for 24 hours before reassembling the dryer. Again, be careful of the wires connected to the front panel as it appears very easy for them to be pinched or cut when putting the front panel back in place.
When the dryer was reassembled, I plugged it back in and have had no more troubles.
First, unplug the dryer. Then, open the top so that you can get access to the work area. On each side of the inside front, there is a screw that connects the front panel to the side panels. Unscrew those screws and pull the front panel until it disconnects from the side panels. Be careful as there are wires that are secured to the bottom of the top inside lip of the front panel. One set of wires goes to the light bulb in the dryer door. You don't need to disconnect the wires, but be sure you don't damage the wires by pulling the front panel too far away from the dryer.
Once you have the front panel out of the way, you can see the front drum glide. In my case, one half was loose as the plastic plugs that pop into recesses to hold the glide in place had broken off. Remove the damaged glide section and replace it with the new section, popping the plastic plugs into the recesses. Don't be afraid to slap the glide to lock the plugs in place.
For the felt, I cut the part of the old felt that was pulling away from the front panel. I then used a flat-head screwdriver and wire brush to remove as much of the old adhesive as I could. Then, using the high-heat adhesive that came with the new felt, I put a generous amount on the front panel where the felt needed to go. I used a toothpick to spread the adhesive to get maximum area coverage. I let it set for a minute or two, and then placed the new felt. I used small clamps to keep the felt in place until the adhesive had time to bond. I only kept the clamps in place for 10 minutes.
Once I removed the clamps, I let the felt continue to adhere to the front panel for 24 hours before reassembling the dryer. Again, be careful of the wires connected to the front panel as it appears very easy for them to be pinched or cut when putting the front panel back in place.
When the dryer was reassembled, I plugged it back in and have had no more troubles.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Arthur from Grand Prairie, TX
- Parts Used:
- 134101400
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Terminal Block Melts when power cord connector is left loose by install crew.
1) Removed Top Dryer Cover (pushed 2 compression clips on front side 1" from top and 2" in from each side) to gain access to terminal block in rear.
2) Removed 2 screws over terminal block cover and 2 screws holding bad terminal block in place. Removed 3 screws holding bad power cord,
3) Removed good terminal connectors from bad terminal block and reinstalled them in the new terminal block.
4) Cut dryer wire from bad terminal block connector and soldered (optional) them to the new terminal block connector. Installed this connector into the new terminal block.
5) Installed new terminal block in dryer with 2 screws.
6) Installed new power cord on new terminal block ensuring contacts were tight and cord had pull guard properly installed. Reinstalled terminal block cover with 2 screws.
7) Reinstalled Dryer Top Cover.
2) Removed 2 screws over terminal block cover and 2 screws holding bad terminal block in place. Removed 3 screws holding bad power cord,
3) Removed good terminal connectors from bad terminal block and reinstalled them in the new terminal block.
4) Cut dryer wire from bad terminal block connector and soldered (optional) them to the new terminal block connector. Installed this connector into the new terminal block.
5) Installed new terminal block in dryer with 2 screws.
6) Installed new power cord on new terminal block ensuring contacts were tight and cord had pull guard properly installed. Reinstalled terminal block cover with 2 screws.
7) Reinstalled Dryer Top Cover.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- jeana from houston, TX
- Parts Used:
- 134503600
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Drum would not turn
remove the rear lower left vent cover to get access the belt tensioner and pulley. then pop the top section up with a flathead screwdriver in the front, freeing it from the popclips. Then remove two screws from the back side of the front section releasing the drum. loop the belt around the drum.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Jeffrey from Gulf Breeze, FL
- Parts Used:
- 5304488479, 131476300
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
dryer squeeked and rattled
after removing the panel covering the dryer blower and removing the blower cover, i pulled the old blower wheel off and placed the new whell on carefully lining the flat edge of the wheel hole up with the flat edge on the blower piston, the n i placed the clamp on and put back all the housing covers and panels...and now my dryer runs quiet and drys cloths fast....thanks to partselect!!!!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Marc from Malden, MA
- Parts Used:
- 5304516871
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
My old lint filter had a few holes in it.
I got online and found that everyone was charging a king's ransom for a piece of plastic. Your ransom was slightly less. Then I paid $7 shipping and handling for the part which came packed in a box six times its size...I guess all that cardboard costs a mint. I opened the box, removed the lint filter, and put it into my dryer....voila! No more holes!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Rodney from Mountain View, CA
- Parts Used:
- 5303937183, 5303937182, 137513300
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
black streaks on clothes from failed drum glide and felt
first i used a flathead to lift up the top of the dryer. there were two prongs that you press in to detach the top.
then there were two screws on the inside along each side that i needed a phillips to remove. one screw on each side.
i also needed to detach a cable and cut the tie.
from there, it was easy to pull off the front of the dryer.
the first noticeable thing was HOW much lint there was inside! so out came the vacuum and away went all the dust and lint.. a TON of it.
then i used a sharp knife to remove all the existing upper and lower felt. that took awhile, and i got as much as i could.
then i applied the TOP felt, nice and center, and from there, the FELT was applied, which fit perfectly. I let it dry/set for about 2 hours.
for the Front drum glide, AN IMPORTANT NOTE! i ordered only ONE drum glide, but you need TWO! I had to order a second one, and i dont know why they dont come in pairs.. so the front drum glides snap on pretty easily to the front of the drum. press hard and they SNAP into place. once they are snapped on, you just put back on the front, replace the screws, re-connect and re-tie the cable, and close the lid!
then there were two screws on the inside along each side that i needed a phillips to remove. one screw on each side.
i also needed to detach a cable and cut the tie.
from there, it was easy to pull off the front of the dryer.
the first noticeable thing was HOW much lint there was inside! so out came the vacuum and away went all the dust and lint.. a TON of it.
then i used a sharp knife to remove all the existing upper and lower felt. that took awhile, and i got as much as i could.
then i applied the TOP felt, nice and center, and from there, the FELT was applied, which fit perfectly. I let it dry/set for about 2 hours.
for the Front drum glide, AN IMPORTANT NOTE! i ordered only ONE drum glide, but you need TWO! I had to order a second one, and i dont know why they dont come in pairs.. so the front drum glides snap on pretty easily to the front of the drum. press hard and they SNAP into place. once they are snapped on, you just put back on the front, replace the screws, re-connect and re-tie the cable, and close the lid!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Chad from Glyndon, MN
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Dryer drum would squeak and squeal until warmed up, but progressively got worse as the days drug on.
First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Gerald from Baltimore, MD
- Parts Used:
- 5303937183, 137513300
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Drum making thumping noises, clothes getting caught behind drum.
I've always been a "do it yourselfer". If I can fix it, I save money. I took the dryer apart by lifting the top up like car hood. Then I removed the front panel. The front drum glide snapped into place easily where the other one had broken off. The felt strip that you sent was much shorter than the one on the dryer, so once I used the wire wheel to remove the old glue, I cut off the section of the felt that was bad and replaced it with the new felt. The turns much quieter and clothing doesnt get caught behind the drum anymore.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- john from waynesboro, VA
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer Drum Squealing Loudly!
This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Don from RUIDOSO, NM
- Parts Used:
- 134587700
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer cut off before the clothes were dry.
All the symptoms indicated the thermister (located in the exhaust air stream of the dryer) was the problem. Pulled the lower panel off the dryer. Took out the two lower screws holding the door panel on so I could pull the front panel out just enough to get a screwdriver on the screws holding the thermister on. Unhooked the two wires connected to it and hooked them to the new thermister(no need to observe polarity). Put the new thermister in, screwed the door panel back down, put the lower panel on and started drying clothes.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Marlene from Laurel, NE
- Parts Used:
- 5304488479, 131476300, 131362400
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
dryer was making terrible clunking noise when running
This is a stacker washer/dryer combination. Took off the back panel of the dryer, but found out the front needed to come off instead,to replace the blower wheel. This took more time than replacing the wheel. Was pretty easy to get to the wheel and replace. The center part had broken so replaced wheel and clamp. The push in fastner was broke, which held in the lint screen part. Was easy to install this. Dryer sounds as good as it did when it was new. It was very easy to find the correct part and shipping was overnight! Great service.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- DAVID from DURHAM, NC
- Parts Used:
- 134101400
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Burning odor, melted terminal block
0) Turned off breaker at panel and disconnected power cord from 240v wall outlet
1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer.
2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood.
3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord
4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer
5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer.
6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals
7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire
8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block
9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire.
10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws
11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block
12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet
13) Turned breaker back on
1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer.
2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood.
3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord
4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer
5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer.
6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals
7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire
8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block
9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire.
10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws
11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block
12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet
13) Turned breaker back on
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Robert from York, PA
- Parts Used:
- 5303937183
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Felt around drum holder worn and torn.
1. Removed face of dryer (drum 'holder')
2. Disconnected door switch wires
3. Tore off existing felt
NOTE: The length of the felt that I recieved from PartSelect was incorrect (too short). Since the existing felt was worn and torn at the top, I replaced only a length that matched the length of the new felt.
4. Used a razor blade-type gasket remover/scraper to remove the exisitng glue
5. Applied new glue (which comes with the felt) onto the felt and let it set up
NOTE: In hindsite, I would apply the glue to the drum holder instead, as the glue otherwise soaks into the felt. If applied to the drum holder instead, the glue will spread out and provide more surface area for adherence.
6. Installed the new felt, starting at one end and working my way around to the other end, being careful not to stretch it
7. Trimmed the remainder of the existing felt (see first NOTE)
8. Scraped the drum holder below the pulled away ends of the exisitng felt
9. Applied glue to the existing felt, including the trrimmed ends so that the ends do not pull away from the ends of the new felt
10. Re-attached the existing felt
11. Let the glue set-up overnight
12. Reinstalled the face of the dryer, turning the drum so that the felt will not get pushed away
13. Reconnected the door switch wires
14. Turned dryer on, with lid still raised, to check for any drifting of the felt
15. Once assured that the felt would stay in place, put the dryer in service
NOTE: I replaced the felt becasue of the gap that opened due to compression of the felt. The gap, as well as a torn piece of the felt that entered the interior of the drum, was catching clothes and tearing them as they were rotated between the drum and the drum holder. The new felt eliminated this problem.
2. Disconnected door switch wires
3. Tore off existing felt
NOTE: The length of the felt that I recieved from PartSelect was incorrect (too short). Since the existing felt was worn and torn at the top, I replaced only a length that matched the length of the new felt.
4. Used a razor blade-type gasket remover/scraper to remove the exisitng glue
5. Applied new glue (which comes with the felt) onto the felt and let it set up
NOTE: In hindsite, I would apply the glue to the drum holder instead, as the glue otherwise soaks into the felt. If applied to the drum holder instead, the glue will spread out and provide more surface area for adherence.
6. Installed the new felt, starting at one end and working my way around to the other end, being careful not to stretch it
7. Trimmed the remainder of the existing felt (see first NOTE)
8. Scraped the drum holder below the pulled away ends of the exisitng felt
9. Applied glue to the existing felt, including the trrimmed ends so that the ends do not pull away from the ends of the new felt
10. Re-attached the existing felt
11. Let the glue set-up overnight
12. Reinstalled the face of the dryer, turning the drum so that the felt will not get pushed away
13. Reconnected the door switch wires
14. Turned dryer on, with lid still raised, to check for any drifting of the felt
15. Once assured that the felt would stay in place, put the dryer in service
NOTE: I replaced the felt becasue of the gap that opened due to compression of the felt. The gap, as well as a torn piece of the felt that entered the interior of the drum, was catching clothes and tearing them as they were rotated between the drum and the drum holder. The new felt eliminated this problem.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!