Models > 1105810102

1105810102 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo

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$22.00
This lid or door switch kit helps ensure your washer or dryer only runs when the door is properly closed. It’s a safety feature that prevents spills and keeps your appliance working as it should. The ...
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
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This is a multi-use cover screw. It fits appliances such as dryers, ranges, washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, air conditioners, washer dryer combos, freezers, wall ovens, microwaves, dehumidifiers,...
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This hose clamp is sold individually.
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Found on the water inlet valve.
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Sold Individually. Order quantity needed.
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This screw is sold individually.
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This clamp helps to prevent leaking by holding the end of water hose in place.
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Sold individually. The size of this screw is 1/4" hex head and 10-12 x 1/2".
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Washer fill hose gasket and screen. This is a set of 4.
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This is the hose that tells your appliance if your tub is at the desired water level.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 1105810102

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Leaking
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Fixing Fixing Fixing
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Will Not Start
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Fixing
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Will not drain
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Fixing Fixing
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Will not agitate
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Fixing
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Won’t Start
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Fixing
How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
Parts Used:
W10820036
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
31 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Glen from Plano, TX
Parts Used:
W10820036
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Mandie from Lewisville, NC
Parts Used:
W10820036
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Washer will agitate, but won't spin
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The swit ch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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