WSM2700DAWCC General Electric Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Mark from San Diego, CA
- Parts Used:
- WE12X10009, WE3X70
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Loud rhythmic squeaking
About a year ago I had to replace the front sliders. I had thought at the time that I should replace the belt and check the rear bearing, but I was in a hurry, and the wash was backing up, so I didn't do it. Oops. Within 6 months dryer started squeaking. Did I get around to pulling it out, and greasing rear bearing. Nope. Dbl oops.
Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.
Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.
So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.
Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)
Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.
Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.
Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.
Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.
OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...
Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem
Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.
Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.
So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.
Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)
Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.
Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.
Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.
Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.
OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...
Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem
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- Customer:
- Jack from Canyon Lake, TX
- Parts Used:
- WH23X10041
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Washer would not drain
Removed 2 Hose clamps with pliers. Unplug power source from drain pump. Unscrew 2 mounting screws with 5/16" nut-driver then replace unit in reverse sequence...... Very simple.
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- Customer:
- Patricia from chicago, IL
- Parts Used:
- WE16X29397
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
filter had a hole
simple replacement
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- Customer:
- Frank from Rochester, NY
- Parts Used:
- WE12X10009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer was not working.
Removed front and top panals to dryer. Installed belt over the drum. opened back air vent panal and installed belt to pully. Reinstalled back top and front panals. Done.
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- Customer:
- Jesse from Battle Ground, WA
- Parts Used:
- WE3X70
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer was squeeking for a while, and then eventually just quit working.
Took the top and the front panel off (took me a while to figure this out without breaking stuff). Took off belt, pulled out drum, replaced bearing, and then I also had to replace the ball (attached to rear of drum, which slides inside the bearing).
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- Customer:
- David from WASHINGTON, DC
- Parts Used:
- WE12X10009
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Two tips after you watch the videos (and video link)
Watch the videos for replacing the belt. The one by Kenmore is the most accurate even though it isn't GE -- the mechanisms are the same. Here is the link to the one I found most helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2wTmfurT5o
First: You don't need to pull the washer/dryer out at all. Leave it in place. You can put the belt around the drive shaft and get the tension pully in place by feel and inspect your work with a flasklight,
Second: There is absolutely no reason to spend $70 on a rubber belt. Other places sell it as cheaply as 10 dollars. Shop around -- the actual part is not at all impressive and should not be priced this high.
First: You don't need to pull the washer/dryer out at all. Leave it in place. You can put the belt around the drive shaft and get the tension pully in place by feel and inspect your work with a flasklight,
Second: There is absolutely no reason to spend $70 on a rubber belt. Other places sell it as cheaply as 10 dollars. Shop around -- the actual part is not at all impressive and should not be priced this high.
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- Customer:
- jeff from coldwater, MI
- Parts Used:
- WE3X70, WE13X28680
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
load noise
took the top off, then the front,there 2 screws that hold the front on. there's a yellow thing on the front took that off, it is held on with one screw. on the back of the dryer on the bottom is a metal plate take that off, to get to the belt take that off. then there' 3 screws in the drum, take them off ,then you can slid the drum out. then take 2 screws off the bearing bracket, that's it. easy
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- Customer:
- Mike from Orlando, FL
- Parts Used:
- WE16X29397
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Nasty, rusted lint trap didn't function any longer
The part arrived in just a couple of days and was exactly the right one. Simply removed the old and replaced and now the dryer works 100 percent better. .
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- Customer:
- ROSANNE from CENTRAL ISLIP, NY
- Parts Used:
- WE16X29397
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
had dropped the dryer filter in the washing machine
the repair was completed with a new lint filter. easy in, the old one tossed out.....perfect/ i'm amazing!
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- Customer:
- Priscilla from SILVER SPRING, MD
- Parts Used:
- WE16X29397
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old lint filter was damaged.
Took a chance on the size and luckily filter was perfect fit.
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- Customer:
- Alonso from MONTGOMRY VLG, MD
- Parts Used:
- WE12X10009, WE13X10011
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Rear bearing was broke
I like to fix , i have time and i just give me the chance to try , and i did it , i wish to pay less for the parts , but was a good feeling when the problem fixed
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- Customer:
- Bonnie from ROCKAWAY, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WE16X29397
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dyer lint filter had holes in the screen
Just installe
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- Customer:
- NICOLAS from LYNN, MA
- Parts Used:
- WE3X70
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Dryer making squeeky noise.
Removed the Drum and replaced the part....
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- Customer:
- Albert from Roselle, IL
- Parts Used:
- WH45X10018, WH08X10004
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
left a drywall screw in my pockit and it cut the tub
I first made a repaire order online and put on the service order that i needed a new tub.
Someone was to call me the the night before but i never got the call the service man was
coming between 8am and 12 he called at 11
and wanted to come and look at the washer to see what parts he needed i told him i put in the service reqwest that it needed a tub and that if he didn't have the tub not to come because i was not going to pay for a service call if he didn't have the parts he did tell me it would cost me $430.00 so i repaired it myshelf
Someone was to call me the the night before but i never got the call the service man was
coming between 8am and 12 he called at 11
and wanted to come and look at the washer to see what parts he needed i told him i put in the service reqwest that it needed a tub and that if he didn't have the tub not to come because i was not going to pay for a service call if he didn't have the parts he did tell me it would cost me $430.00 so i repaired it myshelf
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- Customer:
- Randy from Lake Mary, FL
- Parts Used:
- WE12X10009
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
noisy belt
Removed top of dryer, took screws out of back of dryer, pulled drum off front of dryer, removed old belt and slid new one in place. Reattached drum to front and slid belt in place only to find it was the wrong size. Called an appliance repair man, he said happens more ften than not.
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