Models > FLSE72GCSA

FLSE72GCSA Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo

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Manuals & Guides for FLSE72GCSA

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If your dryer is noisy while tumbling, you may need to replace the drum glides. This genuine OEM part is found attached to the front panel of your dryer. It is used to reduce friction and allows the d...
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The drum support bearing is an authentic OEM replacement part for your dryer. The bearing is used to support the drum and allow it to rotate smoothly and quietly. If your dryer is excessively noisy wh...
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If your washer drum is not spinning, there may be an issue with your drive belt. The drive belt wraps around the motor pulley and helps the basket to spin. Other signs there are issues with the belt i...
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This belt helps rotate from the drive motor to the drum.
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This dryer lint screen is for laundry centers. Dryer lint screen captures lint and debris from the exhaust air flowing from the dryer. Follow the instructions in the owner's manual when installing this part.
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This thermal fuse limiter is used in dryers to monitor the temperature and make sure it does not overheat. The thermal fuse has a limit of 220 degrees Fahrenheit before the heating element and power a...
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This part helps to keep the dryer running as quietly as possible.
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$62.67
This door catch is an authentic OEM replacement part for your dryer. This part holds the door strike and ensures that the door stays closed while your dryer is running. This prevents hot air or laundr...
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The pump is what your washer uses to remove the water from the tub. This part is the pump and motor assembly which includes the red flapper to prevent drain back flow.
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$47.15
This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
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This drum bearing bracket is for dryers. Drum bearing bracket holds and supports the drum bearing
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This washing machine water inlet valve has two ports for water to enter.
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Lynne
October 25, 2023
How to replace washing machine power cord and parts # please.
For model number FLSE72GCSA
Hello Lynne, thank you for your inquiry. The power cord for your model is part number FIX8760411. We have found some relevant instructions to replace the power cord. These instructions may not be of exact model but will help you with the replacement. Unplug the unit. Remove the screws securing the terminal block access panel and remove the panel. Remove the terminal block screws and detach the wires. Loose the screws securing the strain and pull the old power cord. Follow the same steps backward to install a new power cord. Glad to be of assistance!

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Common Problems and Symptoms for FLSE72GCSA

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Noisy
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Marks left on clothes
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Door won’t close
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Leaking
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Will not drain
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Burning smell
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Will not agitate
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Too hot
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No hot or cold water
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Spins slowly
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Will Not Start
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Not draining
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squeeking like crazy
well, i started at the top and worked my way down. by taking the top off, it gave me more room to get the dryer tub out. took the two screw`s out of the vented plate on the back of the machine to undo the belt. this is a stackable washer-dryer combo, so next i took off the white plate on front between washer & dryer. took off the control panel, unpluged it, then took dryer door front off. then removed the two screw`s that hold that bracket on ,in the back of dryer, pulled the drum out & replaced the belt, but before replacing anything i took the shopvac to it , there was alot of lint in there.when replacing the Grounding Ball Clip & Grounding Ball, i took a one inch by two inch magnet and used it to hold the Grounding Ball & Clip in place so i could get the two screws started in the Drum Support Bearing & Bearing Bracket. after installing that i put the shaft in place & lined the dryer tub up with the 3 screw hole`s ,and boom, bang, pow...nothing to it. it`s easy...parts came very fast....Thx PartsSelect.com...i`ve told all my friend`s about PartsSelect
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  • Customer:
    rodney from fairfield bay, AR
  • Parts Used:
    134511600
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
replace broken drive belt
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.
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  • Customer:
    Rick from Walkerton, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.
1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.

2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.

3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.

4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.

5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.

6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.

The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy.
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