79046353402 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.

I pulled my unit out of the wall and noticed that the insulation around the top broiler element was a bit brown. Closer inspection revealed that the element had shorted somehow to the oven itself and caused the element to become non-functional. I tried measuring the resistance first, and it was within typical values for the other elements, but I decided to replace the element anyway.

I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Found that the right hinge spring was sprung loose from its stock position. So I replaced both hinges. Remove the oven door, remove the side trim plate from both sides of the oven door. remove inside of the door to reveal the hinges. replaced both hinges, and replace all covers and put door back on.. I replaced both hinges because if one was wore out the other would not be far behind it.

Easier than painting my toenails!! The gasket came out easily just by pulling with my hands. Replacing it with the new one was even simpler. The clips are already attached to the gasket and easily slip into the holes on the door. I used the end of a tupperware orange peeler to push the unfinished ends of the gasket into a slot at the bottom and that was it! A new, perfect seal and it looks and works great!

ordered switch for on, off. Turned power off at breaker.opened oven door, underneath top console there are four philip screws.. remove top and take slotted screwdriver and unscrew four plastic nuts. I used pocket knife..remove plastic cover , and then remove four more philip screws to remove metal plate that holds all four control switchs. remove two screws that held switch in place
and unplug wires and plug new switch in... Saftey first gentlemen, there is no ifs and buts or maybes when it comes to your life.. make sure you turn your power off.. works like a charm , can adjust heat from 1 to hi..thanks for partselect great price and speedy shipping...James K. Luper

I looked online and read what other people had done. The best advice was keeping all the screws in the order they were taken out. I also separated the screws that had come from the top, sides and inner side of the door. This helped immensely as I reassembled the door. I spread out a heavy garbage bag that I cut open. This kept debris and glass off of my kitchen floor. This is NOT a difficult repair; Parts Select said it would take three days to get me the glass; it arrived in TWO! Start to finish, the entire job took just about an hour. I saved myself over $100, and again, this is NOT difficult!

Removed electrical connector and two screws. Attached the electrical connector to the new probe and attached with the two screws.

Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.

Pull old switches out with pliers and replugged new switches. On main oven, plug casing was melted (wife left broiler on with oven door closed) so had to break apart old casing and individually plug the the wires into new switch and amazingly, it worked! Just gotta keep the door open when broiling.............

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My oven is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

1. Remove all four control knobs.
2. Unscrew all four plastic "nuts" found under each knob holding front
panel to stove.
3. Lift front panel off.
4. Removed all Phillips screws holding metal shield to which control
switches are fastened.
5. Lift entire assembly up.
6. Remove two screws holding bad switch to metal shield.
7. BEFORE REMOVING ANY WIRES LABEL EACH WIRE
ACCORDING TO CODE EMBOSSED ON BACK OF BAD
SWITCH. These will be H1, H2, L1, L2 and P. They are not in
the same place on the new switch as they are on the old one.
The reason for labeling is that in case you make a mistake you
have this back-up to go by. Also to double check your finished
job.If just one wire is connected to the
wrong terminal a disaster will happen.
8. Remove each wire, one at a time from the old switch and connect
it to the correct terminal on the new switch as indicated by the
codes on the back of the new switch. When done double check
to be certain the labels on each wire match the code for the
connected terminal.
9. Slide furnished bushing onto the new switch.
10. Insert new switch through the back of the metal shield and attach
with the supplied screws. The old screws were too short in my
case so be certain to use the ones supplied with the new switch.
11. Re-attach the shield assembly to the stove.
12. Install the front panel back over the switch stems.
13. Secure the front panel with the four plastic nuts.
14. Install the control knobs.
15. Test the new switch.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)