Models > 21239

21239 Jenn-Air Wall Oven

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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If your oven door is not opening or closing easily, there may be an issue with the door hinge. The hinge uses spring tension to allow the door to stay open at an angle instead of dropping open. This g...
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$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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$7.95
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure ...
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The top of this part is now black.
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$100.11
This bake element is 17 inches wide. It has a terminal depth of three inches, and a total element length of ninteen inches. This element is intended for use with some electric ovens.
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This oven door seal prevents heat from escaping the oven cavity when in use.
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This oven door seal is twenty-one inches wide. This woven style door gasket is gray in color.
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$8.04
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This clock knob is less than an inch long. It is all black in color and is made of plastic. This knob will accept a 'D' shaped shaft.
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This part includes 2 panes of glass enclosed in a metal frame. It's the innermost window for your oven door.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 21239

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Little to no heat when baking
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Door won’t close
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Element will not heat
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Oven not heating evenly
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Customer:
Paul from Mickleton, NJ
Parts Used:
WPY702338
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
The oven door seal was ripped and was leaking.
The oven seal replacement was very straight forward. Two screws held the door to the arms coming from the oven. I slid the door up off the arm and moved it to a workbench. This whole process should take about 15 minutes, a little longer if your unit is older and you want to clean as you go. Mine was fairly dirty and I gave it a cleani ng as I removed parts. Unscrew all screws on the outer frame of the door, including two small ones on the side. Remove the outer frame and then the glass front and set them aside. A few more screws to remove the glass from the inner door, and even more on the remaining part of the door. You should also remove the screws holding the tiny brackets as well to release the portion that holds the oven seal in place. This is very straightforward, just keep pulling screws out until you can remove the old seal.

Once the old seal is out, insert the new one using the wire embedded in the seal as your guide...the gap in the seal goes to the bottom. Put everything back together and re-install the door. My door hinges were spring loaded and took a little effort to move them down so the door can be slipped on. This is a two person job since the hinges do not lock in place, they spring right back up flush with the oven and you cannot install the door. Re-install the two set screws holding the door to the hinges and you are done!

With the new seal in place, it felt a little puffy and the door did not seem to close as flush as it used to. This makes sense since the seal is new. I kept the door locked (like you would to use the oven cleaning cycle). I even kept it partially locked during cooking.

Frankly, the hardest part was the cleanup of nasty grease and dirt that built up over the past decade or so.

Best of luck!
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Customer:
William from Statesville, NC
Parts Used:
WP74008014
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Oven door wouldn't close completely
Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs a ren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.
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Customer:
Rosemary from Pawleys Island, SC
Parts Used:
WP701650
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers
seal was black and stiff from burned in spilled grease and sauce
Unscrewed and pulled the door off and then took the three layers of the door apart in order to clean off the burned-on goop and remove the old and insert the new seal. The last screw was rusted in and the drill stripped it so that it was impossible to remove. I levered the remaining two layers apart, holding them open with screw drive rs, and inserted the new seal. Had to be careful with the shaping of the metal core of the seal and the distribution of the sealing fabric. Phew! I saved the screws from each layer separately by taping them to the counter in the order of removal. This made reassembly easier. Getting the door back on was a bit difficult and I needed another pair of hands to help me.
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