JT3500EJ4ES General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.

It took a while to remove approx 30 screws to get to the blower. So my oven was sitting, torn apart while I waited on the new blower fan that I had ordered. It arrived shortly, about 5 days. When I opened the box I saw that PARTSELECT had sent me a drain pump instead of the blower fan that I had ordered. Since an oven does not require a drain pump and it wouldn't work to replace my broken blower fan I had to return it. I was told that I needed to send the part back in order to get a refund. After I sent their drain pump back at a cost of $13 they emailed me and said I didn't need to send the drain pump back. And they refunded me minus shipping So I had to pay shipping both ways for a part that was wrong. And I ordered it from someone else. I put the new blower fan that I had bought from another company in and replaced the 30 screws. And the oven has been working fine ever since. Thank you PARTSELECT for allowing me to tell people how you operate. They have a money back guarantee, but they don't give you back ALL your money. Thanks Again.

My less than 2 year double wall oven was showing a F97 on the right hand side of display screen on my oven, indicating to me it was a lower cooling fan issue. Purchased the parts after a lot of research (and a GE technician telling me over the phone it would be a 600 or more costly repair). I decided to bite the bullet and just do it myself to save money! I’m glad I did! I built a table for it to rest on after it got it out of the wall as it’s a heavy oven. I asked my dad to help me get it out and onto the stand. After that, it was a matter of getting to the lower fan through the back abs having to remove some panels. All went well and best part is this fixed it! I figure even if it goes out again in 2 years it’s still cheaper than paying a technician to do it! I’m a woman with zero background in repair but lots of determination and desire to save money! Just do it yourself!

Changed Fan Blower only, which cleared the Error Code F96.
Other parts have been kept as spares.

Turn power off to oven, removed screws holding oven into cabinet, get assistance to remove oven, I used 2 dinner table chairs to set the oven on, be careful as the front of the oven is heavier than the back. Removed the back sheet metal covers, about 20 screws or so. Removed Fan motor, replaced with new fan motor, and reversed installed. Oven works great.

I ordered the fan and the sensor. I had to pull the whole oven out anyway, why not replace both. Bought a piano dolly at Harbor Freight so I could set the oven on something while it was out of the hole. Make sure and remove the oven doors and racks prior to pulling it out. I was not able by myself. A neighbor had to assist. The fan and sensor are located mid-way up the middle of the rear panel. I just take pictures with my phone as I disassemble so I have a roadmap for reassembly. Once I plugged the fan and sensor in I tested the oven while still out of the hole. I used the vegetable oil to provide a little lubrication to the runners while sliding the oven back in. Works like a charm.

After opening the Oven door, I removed the glass cover to view and locate the bulb, at the inside, top front of the Oven. Removed the burnt out bulb by pulling it in a forward motion towards the front of the Oven, slid the new bulb into place and the Oven is again functional.

Removed oven from kitchen cabinet. Used a mover's dolly and made a wooden box from 2x10 boards to set unit on after removal. This allowed me to not disconnect the wiring from inside the cabinet. Off course, the power was off at the breaker box. Started removing oven panel pieces/covers from the top and replaced the lower fan first. Was a little tricky disconnecting the power clip. Replaced the blower, there is no ground wire as the blower is all metal and is attached to a plate that is metal and would be grounded to the unit itself. Went ahead and replaced the top blower as the unit was removed from the wall cabinet and the fan was exposed, why not, it was only $79. Top fan does have a ground wire. Turned the power on and tested unit, worked with no error code.

Replaced all of the covers. One note. I would suggest taking a couple of photos during the removal. I did not, and one piece seemed out of place, but I did figure out where it went on the unit. Saved $$$ doing it myself. Wish I had recorded for a You Tube video. Also, remember to remove and reuse the board sensor if you didn't buy a new one.

Replaced upper cooling fan and board on double oven by removing covers on top and back.

Step 1, turn off circuit breaker, verify no power at the back of oven

Step 2, remove oven from wall/housing by removing 4 mounting screws, 2 on each side, just on the inside after opening the oven door...this was the most difficult part doing the repair on my own as the oven is a bit heavy...I was fortunate to have a old Workmate 425 work bench that folds/collapses, this allowed me to slide the oven out and drop down about 2 inches...reinstalling the oven I did have to use 2x4s to shim the oven level to slide it back in, with someone to assist this would not be necessary.

Step 3, remove covers to gain access to the blower and sensor

Step 4, remove the sensor

Step 5, install new sensor

Step 6, turn on the circuit breaker

Step 7, test the oven (success, Y, turn off breaker and reassemble all covers, install the oven, secure with the 4 mounting screws, turn on circuit breaker, test one more to ensure of proper operation...N, go to step 8

Step 8, turn off circuit breaker, reinstall original sensor

Step 9, remove blower

Step 10, install new blower

Step 11, turn on circuit breaker

Step 12, test oven, problem resolved, Y, go to step 13, N, continue troubleshooting.

Step 13, turn off circuit breaker

Step 14, replace all covers and reinstall oven, secure with 4 mounting screws

Step 15, turn on circuit breaker

Step 16, test, still operating properly Y, receive hugs and kisses from wife, N, do not make eye contact with wife, take dog for a long walk.

taking the oven out of the wall the most difficult part.. once you removing the sheet metal screws....be sure to take pictures as you dis-assemble putting back together will be easier. wait for correct part. second try they sent the correct part. put back together, test before putting back into wall.. big savings by doing it yourself.

TERRIBLE!!!!!!!
FIrst part arrived broken
Second part arrived broken
Third part arrived broken
Finally on the 4th try, the part arrived and was not broken.
I will NEVER again order parts from this company.

Very straight forward repair except for removal of the fan mount plate. There are 4 sheet metal screws, 2 of which are obvious and shown in the appliance diagrams, and 2 of which are neither on the appliance diagram nor obvious. These screws are beneath the motor assembly and oriented with the heads between the mounting plate and the top of the oven - about a 3/8 inch gap. Removal was accomplished using a 1/4 inch open end wrench strictly by feel as there is no sight line. Not all that challenging, but still a pain. On reassembly, these screws were reversed so that the head is now on the top of the plate and more accessible.

My oven continued showing code F97 when we tried to use it. It would clear sometimes in a minute or 10 min. After some research, I figured it had something to do with the upper and lower cooling fans or the associated circuit boards. These fans send a signal (2.5volts I think) back to the main board identifying they are running correctly (fast enough). If the fans fail to get to required speed, CODE F97 appears. So, purchased both upper and lower fan units along with the corresponding circuit boards and decided to get it a shot. For a $8K oven, I had to try something.

You have to replace the items from the rear. Oven is 360+ lbs., So I purchased a lift from Harbor Freight to support the oven when I pulled it out. Once on the lift and the rear exposed, job was fairly easy.

Just remove the top and rear upper and lower panels, access the fans (circuit boards are attached to the fan housings) and replace with new. 1 hour tops for the entire job. My fans were working, but grease and dust had accumulated on the fins which I fell was my problem. Also, spinning them by hand compared to the new fans showed some drag on the old fans. It could have been a faulty circuit board, but I think it was the fans. The lift is a game changer and really makes this job not too bad.

It's been a week since repair, no F97!!! Ovens works great again!!

watched repair video on disassembling oven door and replacing glass.
followed the video.