JT910WA4WW General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wall. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.

After turning off the breaker to cut power to the oven, I opened the oven door and, using the PartSelect exploded diagram as a guide, I removed 3 screws from the underside of the control panel - I was then able to slide the panel up and out to remove it. Leaving all of the control wires (especially the ribbon) connected to control panel, I saw the fan assembly mounted to the rear of the control box.

I noted the position of the two attached wires - black on top (or left), white on bottom (or right). Using a nutdriver with an extension bar, I unscrewed 4 screws holding the assembly in place. I removed the old fan and installed the new fan in its place. It was necessary to bend the new fan's legs out a bit to get them to line up with the holes. I reconnected the wires as mentioned above, then reinstalled the control panel.

I tested the oven by turning the breaker back on and letting the oven heat up to 450 degrees. The fan turned on as expected. After the oven cooled off, I reinstalled the 3 screws to secure the control panel.

removed two phillips screws. Unplugged electrical connections replaced unit from PartSelect. They sent holder cover and new bulb (surprise). Great store with great directions.

I took the door off, removed the four phillips screws that held the wall oven in it's hole. All the 1/4" fasteners were on the face of the over but you have to pull the oven forward to remove the hinges.
Buying thes two hinges from G.E. would have cost $ 90.00 I paid $ 55.00 from Part Select and they arrived the NEXT DAY. I did not do rush shipping.

Removed the oven door for easy acces to oven. Unscrewed (philips screwdriver) the screw holding temp sensor in place. Gently pulled the wiring until quick connector was located. Pushed down on locking level on quick connect while holding other end of wiring (so wiring would not fall back behind oven). Connected the new sensor and screwed back in place. Reinstalled oven door. Tested temperature settings by turning on oven and comparing with a separate oven thermometer.

It was much easier than trying to remove the bonded aluminum foil from the false bottom/drip pan. Simply lift and remove oven front door, (see your manual), slide out false bottom and slide in new. For me it did take longer than 15 minutes, but that's because I was doing a thorough oven cleaning. The part was in the $50 range and well worth it. Why didn't anyone ever tell me that you can no longer line the bottom of your oven with aluminum foil?

After turning the breaker off, using a 1/4 inch nut driver I removed all the clamp screws (5) holding the heating element in place. I then unplugged the element wire spades from the rear of oven and removed the old element. Installing the new one was simply going in reverse order. After plugging the new one in, I did however, use plyers to squeeze the connectors and make the connections tighter. It took a little more back work than I thought because I was leaning over most the time. All in all, I saved a hundred dollar bill in doing this 30 min job myself.

One hinge assembly wouldn't close all the way, so the door wouldn't close completely. Removed the door. Removed the screws holding the entire oven to the cabinet (6-8 screws) and pulled out the whole oven about 6 inches. Since it's big and heavy, I rested it on an old plastic milk crate.

The pulley inside one hinge assembly was broken. It's held in by two screws from the front, removed those, took out the old assembly, put in the new, put the screws back in, pushed the whole oven back into the cabinet, put the screws back in to hold it to the cabinet, and put the door back on.

The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.

After reviewing the potential causes for the error code, I decided I'd try to change out the temp sensor. Using the ohmeter, I saw the difference immediately between the old and new sensor. The sensor is accessed from the back of the stove, and must be slide out to gain access to the rear panel. Since the stove I have is a built in, removing the stove and the access panel was the hardest part of this repair. Resetting the glass control panel was also a bit tricky to calibrate the touch sensitive buttons. Good luck.

Removed the oven door. Removed screws on side strips and on oven frame where springs were located. Pulled out oven so I could reach the springs. Removed old springs and installed new springs. Installed side strips and remaining screws. Pushed oven back in place and put the door back on.

Made triple sure electricity off. GE designed excellent access to box above oven. Remove three bolts above oven door on bottom of control panel. Slightly raise panel to take off control panel, let hang by wires. Fan in back wall behind panel and has two wires that unplug, four screws to remove. Plug in new fan, input 4 screws. Partselect excellent guide to make sure correct part was ordered, and very timely delivery. $85.00 part instead of $1500.00 new oven. Tip - Note that fan burns out when auto clean turned on. Stop doing that and problem doesn't repeat.

lift door off and remove racks take out old sensor. one word of advise when pulling old sensor out tie a string around connector coming out of oven if it slips out of yor hand it could fall through hole iif you dont have a string attached you pull the whole oven out of wall to acess it

I unfastened the three 1/4" rear screws, then the two support screws on top. I pulled the old element out,( plenty of slack wire luckily). disconnected it from the bayonet-type connections, then attached the new element. I secured the new element using the 1/4" screws. Bingo!

Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.