JTS10SP1SS General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

After removing the back of the range the oven control board was visible and accessible by removing four nuts. There was some resistance removing the leads from the oven coils and light-bulb mechanisms but with some leverage and pliers they came loose. The only challenge was the face plate of the unit is attached using adhesive and needed to be carefully peeled off and added to the new oven control board. Getting this right was just a matter of taking time and lining up the components correctly. After applying the face, the new control board went right in. I reattached the back, plugged the unit back in, and the over has worked great for the past week. Part select being able to identify the part numbers listed from the component likely saved me at least $100 of having a GE certified repair technician come in.

I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wall. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.

called service co. and described problem while i was looking at parts diagram and he agreed with my feeling what part got fried. he told me the part would be 183.00 plus labor and drive time. when i told him i was looking at the part on line for 65 dollars he hung up on me. i recieved the part and was slightly dissapointed to know there was a sepperate adhesive overlay. i saw that it was a sepperate part but if i knew it was adhesive i would have spent the extra 20 dollars for a new one. but, to my surprise the old one peeled off easily and gently re-apllied it to the new conrol board alighning it well seemed to be the trickiest part of the job. took the five wires with connectors out of the old one and inserted them into the same place on the new one. removed the old one from the frame (4 pan phillp sheet metal screws) and then screwed the new wired control board in. plugged in the unit and pressed the bake button and then mixed the brownie batter. replaced the back panel cover. 65 dollars and 15 minutes.

thanks

bob

The repair was simple. All wires were color coded and the new part had the same color codes marked. Simply unplugged the wires from the bad part and plugged them into the new part a reinstalled the part to the back panel of the range.

removed two phillips screws. Unplugged electrical connections replaced unit from PartSelect. They sent holder cover and new bulb (surprise). Great store with great directions.

Removed the oven door for easy acces to oven. Unscrewed (philips screwdriver) the screw holding temp sensor in place. Gently pulled the wiring until quick connector was located. Pushed down on locking level on quick connect while holding other end of wiring (so wiring would not fall back behind oven). Connected the new sensor and screwed back in place. Reinstalled oven door. Tested temperature settings by turning on oven and comparing with a separate oven thermometer.

Remove upper rear cover (4 hex screws), then I removed the 4 phillips screws that mount the control panel, I memorized the wire positions (easy since they are color coded) unplug the wires and remove the old control panel. The face plate of the control panel did not come off easily and the adhesive pulled off some of the white paint, leaving an unsightly clear edge. So I used white-out, and painted the areas where the finish had pulled off. It worked beautifully, and the color match is perfect. Then I reapplied the face plate, put the new control panel in position, connected wires, screwed screws, repositioned rear cover, screwed screws, plugged it in and it was done. The longest pare of the job was waiting for the white-out to dry.

After reviewing the potential causes for the error code, I decided I'd try to change out the temp sensor. Using the ohmeter, I saw the difference immediately between the old and new sensor. The sensor is accessed from the back of the stove, and must be slide out to gain access to the rear panel. Since the stove I have is a built in, removing the stove and the access panel was the hardest part of this repair. Resetting the glass control panel was also a bit tricky to calibrate the touch sensitive buttons. Good luck.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

lift door off and remove racks take out old sensor. one word of advise when pulling old sensor out tie a string around connector coming out of oven if it slips out of yor hand it could fall through hole iif you dont have a string attached you pull the whole oven out of wall to acess it

Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Very simple. Remove one screw and carefully pull the sensor until you see the connection point. Remove the old one and snap the new one in and guide the wire back and reassemble the screw. Be sure to remove the oven door for easy access.

Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless you are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.

Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.