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A9122VPV
A9122VPV Admiral Wall Oven
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Diagrams for A9122VPV
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$11.72
This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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$57.74
This flat style oven igniter kit is a genuine OEM replacement part for your gas range. When the igniter glows white hot, the heat opens the gas valve and ignites the fuel heating the burner assembly. ...
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$7.75
This is a multi-use frame screw that fits a variety of power tools and equipment. Follow installation instructions and safety practices provided in the manual by the manufacturer.
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$70.97
This oven door seal is seventeen and a half inches long. It is made of rubber and has a metal hook on either end to hold it in place. This seal sits on top of the glass window pane.
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Special Order
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Order within the next 12 hrs and your part ships today!
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This broil pan is fourteen inches wide, and almost sixteen inches long. It is made of black porcelain.
No Longer Available
This oven door seal is fifteen and a half inches long. It is made of rubber and has a metal hook on either end to hold it in place. This seal sits on top of the glass window pane.
No Longer Available
Questions and Answers
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Common Problems and Symptoms for A9122VPV
Viewing 7 of 7Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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How to fix it
Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Oven not heating evenly
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Gas smell
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Little to no heat when broiling
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How to fix it
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- Customer:
- James from Ferndale, MI
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven would not work but the Broiler did
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and f
... Read more
ound this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
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- Customer:
- Charles from Charlestown, RI
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven would'nt light
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve
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for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
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- Customer:
- Beryl from Dawsonville, GA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven failed to light
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!
I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws ... Read more that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!
I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws ... Read more that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!
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