Models > 21AC482R

21AC482R (2014) Cub Cadet Tiller

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This nut is fit for lawn and garden equipment and is used to resist loosening when properly threaded onto a bolt. The nut is sold individually. The diameter of the nut is 5/16 inches and the thread si...
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This lock nut is used for lawn and garden equipment, and is sold individually. This nut resists loosening when it is correctly threaded onto a bolt in your tool. The measurements are: the diameter of ...
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This is a TT screw, but it is also called a fastener, and it is used on multiple outdoor tools. This part is a Tri-Round or Tri-Lobular thread forming screw, it is 0.25 inches in diameter, 0.5 inches ...
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Genuine Manufacturer Sourced replacement part used on Walk-Behind Push Mowers. This is the Belt which connects to the Transmission and allows mower to mower forward. This part is made out of Rubber an...
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$6.25
This is a flange lock nut, and it is used with various outdoor tools and equipment. The flange lock nut is all one piece. It has a bottom circular flange and a smaller top hex section. This is a torqu...
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This is a Genuine OEM Sourced replacement part used on Walk-Behind Push Mowers and RotoTillers. This is the Belt which connects to the Transmission and allows mower to drive reverse. This part is made...
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This lock washer is used to resist the loosening of bolted joints. Repair tip: It is difficult to install the lock washer in a tight place or when the bolt/screw is pointing down. This lock works with...
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This is an authentic manufacturer sourced replacement cotter pin. It is a standard hardware commonly used on lawn and garden equipment, please refer to appropriate diagrams of your unit for correct lo...
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$6.25
This is an authentic item that is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer for use with walk-behind lawn mowers. It provides an identical replacement for a missing or a faulty dowel pin that wa...
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This genuine component is supplied directly from the original equipment manufacturer for use with Ryobi and MTD lawn and garden equipment. It is a standard hardware which may have multiple application...
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In Stock
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Customer:
Dana from HAMMOND, IN
Parts Used:
792006
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Mistreated Briggs & Stratton 206 CC Engine on MTD Chipper
Removed tank and drained old gas.
Removed and disassembled carb. Needed new gaskets and seals, and had to clean corn syrup glaze (separated ethanol) from bowl and everywhere else with carb cleaner.
Throttle linkage was de-plating/rusty. Steel wool and WD40 got it moving again.
Cleaned spark plug electrode.
Reassemble d, poured Sea Foam in the bottom of the tank and gave it a few pulls.
Let Sea Foam sit for a while, then filled the tank with Premium.
Blew white smoke for a minute then ran like new. Shredded for a while, then changed the oil.
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Customer:
Wayne from OOLTEWAH, TN
Parts Used:
555778, 591301, 699598
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set
Parts fit like a glove
Removed pull start assembly down to the crank. Installed motor housing, motor fan & rewind assembly. All went real good.
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Customer:
Philip from LINEVILLE, AL
Parts Used:
693593, 691893
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Socket set
Needed to replace muffler
Using a socket wrench with extension and a T20 star socket (you can use the appropriate hex head socket also) i removed to two bolts holding the muffler on. They are right on top of the engine and very accessible. Your model may have a heat shield that needs to be removed. Once the muffler is off remove the old gasket. It may be stuck to the muffler or exhaust opening on the engine. It should just pry of with a little effort. I did make sure there were no gasket pieces left behind. I placed the bolts through the flange of the new muffler and then slid the new gasket over the bolts. You can use a exhaust gasket sealant just hold it place while you place the flange in place and not have to worry about gasket dropping off. I just held it until I got the flange in place. I started the bolts by hand using the socket and extension. I alternated from each bolt until I had tighted it down. You can look up torque specs. I just used my grunt meter. It is good as new. Parts were OEM replacement. Not knock off almost right parts. I got very lucky when I found this company and will use them again.
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