5WT519SFEG00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

Spoke to a repair technician online described what was happening as food keep freezing in the fridge.
He advised me to change the thermistor and if that didn't work the control board as those are the only 2 things that would cause food to freeze.
Changed thermistor and fridge is running at proper temp very disappointed with whirlpool as fridge is only 2 years old and had issues already .
Now that its repaired its Time for a COLD beer !!!

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Remove the drawer. Remove top shelf it's connected to by carefully lifting. Turn the shelf upside down and slide meat drawer shelf off of either side, paying attention to how it is placed. Install new meat drawer shelf, replace shelf!

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

took the old thermistor out and put the new one in.

I unplugged the refrigerator to remove power. I pried off the back plastic cover. Loosened the two screws with a nut driver. Disconnected the original thermistor and connected the new thermistor. Rerouted the wire and replaced the plastic covers. Restored power and waited for the refrigerator to return to temperature and shut off.

This didn't happen. The refrigerator continued to run. Contacted an appliance repair group and it was determined the `control circuit card' was defective. Part has been ordered. The thermistor did not resolve the problem, as stated in the original problem support contained on the web site.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Removed all food! I used storage boxes insulates with blankets and a bit of dry ice in the boxes to keep the food cold.

Removed bottom bin and shelf

Removed bottom cover and fan shroud, this exposes evaporator coil and the thermostat. I had to defrost the evaporator and thermostat, they were completely encased in ice.

Thermostat is clipped to the evaporator coil, simply pry it off and removed it from the wire harness. Easy! Thermostat has a connector!
Installed new thermostat in the same location as the old one. Connected it to the wire harness and replace the bottom cover.
Turned it on and it seems to be working fine, now three weeks after repair.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.

Super simple job. Unplug freezer. Have a hair dryer handy to defrost while you have unit open. Remove food from the bottom two shelves and floor of freezer. Remove mid plastic cover removing three screws. (All screws are same so mixing them is no big deal.) Use drill-driver or screw driver to spin out six screws on lower back plate. Remove plate. Thermistor is on left side of the cooling tubing. Use hair dryer to melt ice if necessary. Un-clip thermistor power connection, and unsnap it from tubing. snap new thermistor on cooling tube and hook up wiring. Ensure plug fits together correctly and snugly. If heavy icing exists, use hair dryer to melt ice on coils and through fan. Ensure water drains out of drain pan under coils. Wipe up as much ice melt as possible to prvent re-frosting upon start-up. Replace lower panel and six screws. Replace mid-panel cover and three screws and replace shelves. Done! Plug freezer back in and expect 30 second delay before unit will start up.