RISBS620PN Whirlpool Refrigerator

I could see that a tab was broken from the round chute that opens for ice dispensing and closes to seal off freezer ice chute when not in use. With the tab broken, the round door would not shut to seal the freezer chute and dispensing water would spatter everywhere. I looked for just the round door part, but is only sold in the "Ice disp ... Read more enser solenoid and door kit" I only had to use the round chute/flap from the kit. The instructions were easy to follow and I had the fridge back working in about 10 minutes. It took me longer to find the right star headed screwdriver that I needed to remove the Maytag star screws (5) total. Because I didn't have to replace the solenoid or the spring mechanism, this was especially easy, and now I have those parts on hand if one day I need them!!

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing ... Read more the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

First I unpluged the refrigerator, then I removed the drip shelf (slides out). Then removed the two screws hidden by the drip shelf. Then I removed the control panel by pulling out on the bottom then lifting slightly to to expose the ribbon cable. The circuit boards you see at this point will deliver an electrical shock if the refrigera ... Read more tor is plugged in. I disconnected the ribbon cable form the control (front) panel. Next I removed three screws that hold the chute assembly in place and worked the chute away from the door. Pay attention to the placement of the water line before you remove the chute. The bad flap fell out at this point but it is easy to fiqure out how to place the new one. When putting the chute back in place make sure the arm holding the flap is aligned in the groove of the solenoid plunger and not just setting on top. (I had to do this twice because the chute would not open the first time I put it back together). About a 30 min job because I took it apart the first time to see what was broken. I only needed the flap, the arm it mounts to an the solenoid were not broken. Easy to do and only cost about $16.00 with shipping for the part.