Models > 95-2187-23-01

95-2187-23-01 Tappan Refrigerator

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If your freezer will not defrost, or your fridge and freezer are too warm, there may be an issue with the defrost timer. This device helps to melt ice that builds up on the evaporator coils. It does t...
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$19.73
Clear, 120 Volt, 40 Watt.
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This motor runs the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wires terminals. This motor rotates in a clockwise fashion. Its shaft has a diameter of 1/8" and is 1-1/4" long.
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This white fresh food door gasket is used to seal the refrigerator door when closed to keep the cool air inside and the room air out.
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Sold individually.
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Sold individually.
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Sold individually.
No Longer Available
This white hinge pin bearing pivots the freezer and refrigerator door.
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This part turns the light on/off as the door opens and closes.
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Refrigerant system filter/dryer.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 95-2187-23-01

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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Freezer section too warm
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Leaking
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Will Not Start
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Fridge runs too long
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Light not working
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Door Sweating
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Frost buildup
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Too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Customer:
Jordan from Maumee, OH
Parts Used:
5308000010, 5300158289
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver
Noisy fan
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
152 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Tad from Lancaster, OH
Parts Used:
215846602
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Side-by-side .. freezer working, fridge not cooling
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc . After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself
46 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Dale from Pevely, MO
Parts Used:
218730609, 218519300
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Refrigerator ran frequently and freezer door was sagging
I pulled off the old door gasket which came off really easy. I was hoping the new one would go on as easy as just popping it in place but it didnt work. I had to remove the inside door panel. The gasket wouldnt lay entirely flat in the inside groove so I used a bead of RTV around the entire circumference which helped to hold it in place w hile reattaching the panel back onto the door. The screws fit on the under side of the magnetic portion of the gasket. In order to access the screw holes the gasket has to be lifted which sometimes causes the gasket to pull from the lip on the back side of the panel making the RTV get everywhere. After every screw was in place and lightly tightened the panel had to be adjusted to allow for the proper closing of the door. This was the worst part, fortunatly the screws left a slight indentation of where they were before I removed them so it gave me a nice reference.
The hinge part of the new gasket requires a lubricant so it wont bind up when the door is closed. I didnt know about this until my order arrived and a part number was recommended for the type of lube. I just used Vasolene and it works fine.
The pin bearing was really easy. Just unload the contents from the door, mine was the freezer door. I popped off the cap covering the screws and removed the screws while holding the door so it wouldnt drop on the floor. Once off I used a flat head screwdriver to pry out the old one and a light tap of a hammer to replace it with the new. I put it all together the way it came off.
Now my fridge runs much less and the freezer door doesnt sag.
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