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TRT22MRHB0
TRT22MRHB0 Tappan Refrigerator
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Manuals & Guides for TRT22MRHB0
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$38.64
If your freezer will not defrost, or your fridge and freezer are too warm, there may be an issue with the defrost timer. This device helps to melt ice that builds up on the evaporator coils. It does t...
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$22.68
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
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$28.21
This is the replacement crisper drawer cover support for your refrigerator. The crisper shelf rests on the support, which keeps it level. If your drawer cover or shelf will not stay level, or will not...
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It can be used with either the right side or the left side refrigerator and freezer door shelves.
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$21.58
Sold individually.
This is a genuine part. The handle mounting shoulder screw (no.10 ab) is made for use with many refrigerators. The metal screw helps to fasten the handle assembly to the outer do...
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$101.85
This motor runs the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wires terminals. This motor rotates in a clockwise fashion. Its shaft has a diameter of 1/8" and is 1-1/4" long.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for TRT22MRHB0
Viewing 15 of 15Fridge too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Freezer section too warm
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Light not working
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Noisy
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Leaking
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Fridge runs too long
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge too cold
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Frost buildup
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Too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Stephen from Warrington, PA
- Parts Used:
- 5303917954, 215846602
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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- Customer:
- William from Alexandria, VA
- Parts Used:
- 218906802
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Light socket melted around bulb
After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in.
... Read more
Whole operation to 5 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Tad from Lancaster, OH
- Parts Used:
- 215846602
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Side-by-side .. freezer working, fridge not cooling
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc
... Read more
. After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself
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