Models > RT18DKXHW00

RT18DKXHW00 Roper Refrigerator

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Diagrams for RT18DKXHW00

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Replacing a broken crisper drawer in your refrigerator is a simple repair that does not require any tools. Simply remove any items from the damaged drawer, and remove the drawer from the fridge. The w...
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The defrost timer works on a predetermined schedule, to alternate between the cooling cycle and the defrost heater in your freezer. When the heating circuit is activated, it melts any ice that has for...
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Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
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This clip-on thermostat will sense the temperature increase in the evaporator during the defrost cycle and will cycle the defrost heater off after the ice or frost is melted.
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This genuine OEM part is an end cap for the door shelf retainer bar in your refrigerator. The end cap is used to secure the retainer bar and attach it to the fridge or freezer door. It is made of whit...
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Sold individually.
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This part goes in the center of the crisper shelf and acts as a support.
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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This part is used to support the hinge.
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$13.37
Sold individually.
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$7.91
Metallic screw that is less than an inch long. Does not include the plastic washer.
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This is a replacement crisper drawer for your refrigerator. The drawer is approximately 24 inches long, 11 inches wide, and 12 inches tall. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The cr...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for RT18DKXHW00

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Leaking
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Freezer section too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Noisy
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Frost buildup
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Door Sweating
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Ice maker not making ice
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Lawrence from Grahamsville, NY
Parts Used:
W10822278, WP4387503
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver
The frost free feature of the freezer was freezing over with ice and cooling coils were being insulated with thickening frost which caused the cooling air to rise in temperature from -5 degrees to 20 degrees.
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal o pens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
430 of 516 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Aaron from Houston, TX
Parts Used:
WP2204605
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Faulty thermostat
My refrigerator is approximately seven years old (date of manufacture: 2001). I had come home twice in the last month to find that it had not been running for several hours (ice melted, milk spoiled, etc.) but it would start running again if I twisted the thermostat knob. So, I ordered a new thermostat. First I removed the 1/4" hex scr ew that held the plastic thermostat housing in place (it screws up into the top of the refrigerator compartment). Then I removed the plastic thermostat knob and slid the old thermostat out of the housing. I then disconnected the wires one-by-one from the old thermostat and connected them to the new one so I could be certain they were all connected correctly. Finally, I pulled the plastic sheathing off the old sensor wire, slid it onto the new one and popped the wire back into place. Slide the thermostat back into the housing, screw the housing back into the top of the refrigerator compartment, replace the plastic thermostat knob, and the job is done.
91 of 97 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Clint from Rayville, MO
Parts Used:
W11384469
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
126 of 213 people found this instruction helpful.
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