GSD2657HEB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.

Having seen this problem before in other equipment so I had an idea where to look. Problem: the automatic defrost function was not operating. Looking through openings in the back panel of the freezer compartment, you could see the evaporator coils and fins were a solid chuck of ice. There are three logical components to check. Heater element, thermostat (located just above the evaporator) and a relay on the control board (located in the fridge control panel). Checked the heater with an ohm meter -- OK. The thermostat closes the circuit at around 20 degrees and opens at around 32 degrees. Pulled out the thermostat, wiring, fan unit. Everything unplugs, unscrews, and unclips, don't cut wires. Put the whole assembly in a friends freezer for an hour or so to see if the thermostat closes -- OK. Problem had to be with the control board. Replaced control board, reprogrammed it per included instruction. Everything is working again.

I removed the screws in the lower back panel where the compressor is located. Then I unplugged the capacitor and plugged the new one in. I then checked to see if the compressor would start. It wouldn't so I replaced the overload relay with capacitor and that fixed the problem. The capacitor just plugs into the relay then plugs into the compressor. There are several screws but all in all it is easy.

My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this one. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)

Parts were available at the locat applicance store, but the cost was 20-25% higher than ordering through Parts Select (including shipping) + it was delivered in 3 days right to the house.

Removing and replacing the ice maker was fairly straight forward. Tight quarters to work in, but managable.

1. With the freezer turned off, uplug the ice maker power cable at the back of the freezer.
2. Remove the four phillips head screws and ice bucket rail to the side of the freezer. I found it was easier to re-install the new ice maker with the rail clear off.
3. Loosen the two upper hex head screws holding the ice maker (requires a nut driver).
4. Lift the ice maker up and off of the upper screws.
5. With the ice maker out of the freezer, remove the power cable from the old ice maker and re-install on the new ice maker. At this point, both the front cover and the on/off lift bar can be transfered from the old ice maker to the new one.
6. Slip the new ice maker down over the two upper screws making sure the lower mounting tab is behind the ice bucket rail. Make sure the hole on lower mounting tab lines up with screw hole.
7. Re-install the ice bucket rail and tighten all screws. Make sure the water supply tube is lined up correctly feeding into the ice maker.
8. Re-connect ice maker power cable at the back of freezer and turn freezer back on.

It took about 4 hours for the first ice to generate. It cycled normally after that. No more leaks or ice globs in the ice bucket.

The hard part for me was figuring out which part was causing the problem. I read what others had done and followed their test methods. I checked the defroster heater for continuity and the defroster thermostat to make sure it was closing. the defroster termostat has to be cold to check it. You will need to check it while it is in ice or take it out and put it in another freezer for 30 mins and then check it for continuity. Those items checked out ok so it had to be the control board. The control board is a 5 min job to replace but making sure that is your problem is the hard part. I think the control board was bad due to a power surge we had when the power went out and came back on. It might be a good idea to put a surge protector on your home to protect your fridge and all your other electronic stuff. Our refrigerator is now working like new again. Thank you for all your help, Jim

First thing to do is take two screws off where the door closes.I removed the light sheild off by pushing it to back of refrig.The most hardest part is removing the complete panel,I took a small flat blade scraper to ply down to get small access than you need to put alot of pressure to start getting the panel to start coming off there are alot of pegs to free,the back panel has two hinges that slide towards the front.Once the panel drops remove the connectors and take entire unit out,very easy to replace the control board at this point.Installation is easy slide the two hinges on back in place and put pressure on unit to snap entire unit in place.Program unit with paperwork that came with part very easy to do.Frig is working great now.Just a note the paperwork on refrig is located in the front right corner the mf hids it ,this information will allow you to check all problems with refrig using the key pads for freezer/refrig.Good luck.

Shutoff water and turn off fridge. Remove the main water hose from the fridge with pliers, then remove back bottom plate of fridge where the hose was at (about 5 screws) in order to disconnect the hoses going into the valve by pushing in on the plastic colored fastener(blue & white) while pulling on the hose at the same time. Do this for each of the hoses. Then disconnect the wires from the valve and unscrew the valve(1 screw) from the back plate. Replace with new valve which comes with brand new fasteners for the hoses so all you have to do is insert the hoses in the valve and reverse the above process to install the valve.

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

After emptying the refrig. door, I unscrewed the plate on the top of the refrigerator that covered the door bolts. Then off with the three bolts. I removed the door by lifting it up a few inches. The two parts of the door cam were easily removed and replaced with the new part. BEFORE REPLACING the door spread vasoline on both cam parts.
(Not after as I did. The second time you do any of these repairs go SO much better :o)
After putting the door back on, adjust the tension of the screws holding the door in place if needed to align the door on the cams so that it shuts completely. Failure to do this will require taking the top off the door again. (see comment above on "... second time...")
If all is properly aligned, the door should swing completely shut.
Even with the mistakes that required removing the door to lubricate the cams, and removing it AGAIN to readjust the screws on the top to properly align the door on the cams, this was a twenty minute job. My wife and I were still speaking to one another at the end of it- a sure sign of an easy repair.

Installed new ice maker. It was easy - loosen two screws and unplug old wire harness. Put new unit in place. Did not realize new unit would not come with wire harness, but transferred old one to new ice maker (easy) and, "voila" some ice in 24 hours -- much ice since then. I am a 68 year old woman and it was "sort of fun" doing this job.

The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

Well the frist thing I did was get out the all the paper work and look under trouble shooting.This frig has a list of codes to try to help narrow down what parts might be bad.Well at frist it seemed it was a Defrost Thermastat?Well thanks to PartSelect it showed me right where it was and step by step how to remove and replace it.It took me over 2Hr's,after that I let the frig run all night and the next morning(yep warm frig)not the part I needed,well now Im mad,the local part store said you need a 3in1 jump starter easy to in stall at $50.Can'nt bring parts back no way weather thier opened or not.So get home and can'nt see how this jumper is going to wire up to my compresser?So on to the Web site to get some info,find out that this part gets a thumb's down,it puts out more volt's then needed and kills your compresser the reviews where very help full.So back to PartSelect to see more info,then I spoted the Overload/Relay and went to the back of my Frig and this part just plugs right into the compresser,I pulled it of with pliers and Bingo a burn spot melted right through the Overload/Relay.Ordered the right part the same as the old one.Put the part in and Bam,compresser fired right up.If I only did alittle more home work I could off saved alot of head ach and money.Thanks PartSelect I'll alway's click on to your web site for future parts and advise.

replaced control board

removed ice maker and wire shelf. removed back panel screws and tilted forward. removed 2 screws holding motor bracket. swapped fan blade and reassembled