Models > AS2125CIHW

AS2125CIHW Maytag Refrigerator

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Diagrams for AS2125CIHW

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Manuals & Guides for AS2125CIHW

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Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
In Stock
$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
In Stock
$27.65
This part includes one authentically sourced 3-pin rocker switch for a refrigerator. It is responsible for turning the light on inside the fridge when the door is open. It is commonly replaced because...
In Stock
This ice door assembly is a little over three inches in diameter. It is all white in color and it is made entirely of plastic.
In Stock
This icemaker water inlet cup is three inches long. It is all white in color and is made of plastic.
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This lower hinge pin is almost two inches long. It is made entirely of plastic and it is all black in color.
No Longer Available
$7.76
Sold individually.
In Stock
This limit switch is located in the ice/water dispenser section. The switch pictured here is black, though this type of switch is also available in white.
No Longer Available
$5.42
Sold individually.
In Stock
Sold Individually.
In Stock
This part is also known as the cycling thermostat and this bi-metal device controls the activation of the icemaker ejection cycle.
In Stock
The fan blade is used to blow air over the condenser.
In Stock

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Common Problems and Symptoms for AS2125CIHW

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Light not working
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Leaking
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Ice maker not making ice
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Not dispensing water
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Door won’t open or close
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Noisy
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Fridge too warm
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Door Sweating
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Will Not Start
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer section too warm
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Customer:
David from Chester, CA
Parts Used:
WP628356
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The Bearing Cup Assembly was broken and ice would jamb against it during the ice making cycle.
I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.
107 of 133 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Clint from Rayville, MO
Parts Used:
W11384469
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
118 of 192 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Philip from Plantation, FL
Parts Used:
WP61005883
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Ice dispenser cover flap was broken.
First I unpluged the refrigerator, then I removed the drip shelf (slides out). Then removed the two screws hidden by the drip shelf. Then I removed the control panel by pulling out on the bottom then lifting slightly to to expose the ribbon cable. The circuit boards you see at this point will deliver an electrical shock if the refrigera tor is plugged in. I disconnected the ribbon cable form the control (front) panel. Next I removed three screws that hold the chute assembly in place and worked the chute away from the door. Pay attention to the placement of the water line before you remove the chute. The bad flap fell out at this point but it is easy to fiqure out how to place the new one. When putting the chute back in place make sure the arm holding the flap is aligned in the groove of the solenoid plunger and not just setting on top. (I had to do this twice because the chute would not open the first time I put it back together). About a 30 min job because I took it apart the first time to see what was broken. I only needed the flap, the arm it mounts to an the solenoid were not broken. Easy to do and only cost about $16.00 with shipping for the part.
78 of 80 people found this instruction helpful.
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