RC22FY-3AW Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

This is a problem in the defrost cycle. It is one of three items the heater, timer or thermostat.. I removed the screws from the back side of the freezer and romoved the sheet metal from the back which exposes all the elements. Below the evaporaro coils are two small plates which cover the heating elements ( two glass tubes conected to insulated wire), You may be able to look at it and tell if they are bad. Mine was burnt and obviously gone. If you disconnect from conectors you can check for conitinuity to tell if bad. Simply remove the four screws holding these in place and install new one the same way. quite easy. I did check the thermostat for continuity and relaced it also. It simply plugs into a clip on the back wall and two power connectors. If checking themostat for continuity make sure it is cold otherwise it will be open and you won't get a good read. The timer for this model is under \neather behind the grill on the bottom. simply turn the dial and if the motor stops it is probbably good. It runs 8 hr. and then will shut off for defrost heater to come on. Do this before closing up to tell that your new heater is working. It will get red quickly. Saved a lot of money on this one

I had read on a fix it site that the start device for the compressor on this particular model was known to fail after 3-5 years. When we received the part it looked like something that just plugged into the compressor. My husband unscrewed the panel in the back of the fridge and saw the part on the compressor. He first removed the three wires that it was connected to, and the wires were inside a plug so all he had to do was remove the plug from the start device. He then removed the old start device from the compressor. Plugged in the wire plug into the new start device, and pushed in the new start device into the compressor. There was also another black part plugged into the old start device that he plugged inot the new start device that connected to the compressor. Our freezer and refrigerator starting working. Within a couple of hours our freezer had made ice.

Defrosted, removed old heaters and thermostat and installed new heaters and thermostat. Not a hard job at all.

Water was dripping out of top freezer door and had water under the refridgerator. I could hear a clicking noice from bottom of refrigerator every 3-5 minutes.
After removing back panel, I noticed the fan was running and the clicking seemed to be coming from somewhere around the compressor which was warm. I noticed on the site a simular problem had been submitted. It said to remove the start relay and if it rattled it was bad. I removed two wires from it ( it is connected onto the side of the compressor) then took a small screw driver to pry it away from the compressor. It not only rattled but had tiny pieces falling out. I ordered the part and replaced it in less than 15 minutes total and all is well.

pull the fridge out away from the wall and hope you have a long flex water supply hose.remove cardboard cover,oh yea unplug fridge first.unplug wire from the relay.flip the wire retainer off the relay and pry it away from the compressor.pull the 2 prong capacitor off and then reverse the steps to reasemble. skip the middle man at the local appliance shop.i waited 2 weeks for him to get the part and gave up.your reg shipping got it here in 2 days.

I had to cut off the old yoke since the threads had stripped and it would not come off. Once I did that all I had to do was to remove 4 screws on the auger motor and replace it with the new auger motor. Then I put the yoke on the new auger motor shaft and then put the unit back in the freezer. Work time was less than 15 minutes with no problems.

unplug refrigerator. remove contents from freezer. remove shelves, trays, icebucket, light cover & bulb. defrost back panel w/hair dryer. remove screws from: ice dispenser motor housing, back cover. remove back cover. defrost evaporator w/hair dryer. remove heater leads from connector on feedthru. remove heater mounting screws. pull leads down thru evaporator while removing heaters. install new heaters on mounting plates. feed leads up thru evaporator. connect to feedthru. install everything else.

part was exact fit. same resistance as on schematic, leads were long enough. no problems encountered.

Removed the rubber cover over the actuator switch. Used a screwdriver to remove the switch, disconnected the wires. I then removed the switch from the mounting bracket using a small philips head screw driver. Installed the new switch on the mounting bracket then installed the switch onto the freezer door. The only difficult part was installing the rubber cover. Now I just need to repair the damage to my hardwood floors and carpet from all the water.

I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98.
So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.

This was an easy fix. The old one had cracked probably from the frige being left out in cold weather. Just remove the back cover. Unscrew the water line and two plastic lines and unplug the two plugs. Then remove a single screw that holds the valve in place and put on the new one and reattach everything. Good idea to recut the ends of the tubing to remove old crimp.

Removed the ice bucket from the freezer. Removed the single screw on the left side with a nut driver, then lift and pull the tray toward you...there is a wiring harness in back of the tray that I had to unplug...easy, pinch the sides of the plastic connector and it disconnects..and the tray came out of the refrigerator...and the cussing started. Since the threaded yoke was stripped it could not be unscrewed from the motor shaft...I took my trusty Dremel Tool and cut the shaft off so the yoke could be separated from the motor shaft and the motor could be removed from the plastic housing. From here on it was a piece of cake...install the new motor and screw the new yoke onto the motor shaft... I think it has a left handed thread, like the old propane bottles used to have..slide the tray back in, reconnect the wiring harness (it only plugs in one way), make sure the tray is sitting on the 4 side supports, put the single screw on the left side and you are done....put the ice bucket back in and flip the bail down and you should be back on business....!!

Tips from internet forums helped me figure out the problem: The defroster heaters were not working and the freezer side would frost up and prevent cold air from entering the refrigerator side. I removed the drawers, drawer slides, ice maker, then the back panel to expose the cooling coils. You can check the heaters for continuity before rempving them by disconnecting the two lead wiresonce you have the back panel removed. Not getting any continuity, I removed the old heaters after defrosting the coils. Removing the heaters was the most difficult part as they are a little "long" for where they fit, but with care it can be done, the same applies to installing the new heaters. I had to cut the connecting wire on one of the heaters to remove it, but got the new set installed OK. Works fine now, the bottom heater was defective, and since the are wired in series neither one will work independently. Everything works fine now, problem solved.

although this piece s white, my refrigerator had clear plastic guides - both work OK. Remove meat drawer, remove glass shelf from refrigerator. Glass shelf is attached to metal frame by two clips at rear of shelf. Before removing, notice how the clips are fastened to the chrome trim so replacement will be easier. Remove clips with fingers. Glass shelf will then swing up and away from metal frame, allowing easy removal of drawer guide(s). Remove broken guide and replace with new. Lower the glass and re-attach metal clips. Replace metal shelf in refrigerator and re-insert drawer. That's it.

Part selects cataglog for parts selection was very easy to use and the online service and delivery was great.
When I got the part, it was not apparent on how to remove the auger so that I could insert the new connector. There were about about 8 visible screws, with star drive heads that I fortunately had a screwdriver that fit, and I could not tell if I had to remove all of them or only a couple.
I ended up removing all, but still could not separate the dispenser portion which held the front of the auger from the back of the ice bin. I finally figured out that the dispenser door trip lever had to be disconnected and I almost lost it when I removed the metal clip that attached it to the outside of the ice bin when the spring loaded lever tried to unwind. I managed to hold it in place, separate the dispenser holding the auger from the rest of the ice bin and replace the connector. I them got the pieces back in place and was able to refasten the spring loaded lever and then replace the screws.
If the spring loaded lever had unloaded, it would have been tricky to try to replicate the amount of turns (load) on the spring tension.

Removed everything from inside freezer compartment (food and shelves) Removed inside backpanel that covered the coils. At the top of the coils is where the thermostat was attached. Removed old one and installed new. Has been working since.