RC24HA-3A1 Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

First did the easy part, removed and replaced the defrost timer. Didn't correct the problem.

Then got into the defrost heaters. Big job, because the factory didn't provide for repairs. Had to remove the ice maker because there was one screw holding on the cover panel behind it. The factory installed defrost heaters were run behind the freezer coils so I had to cut them out. Then I had to bend the light aluminum sides with heavy pliers to slip the burned out defrost heaters out and replace them with the new defrost heaters. Didn't use the defrost timer, because I was taking it one step at a time.

Now the refrigerator fresh food side maintains 39 degrees and runs 1/10 the time it was running. My wife says it's better than new! Saved $ 2,400 (the replacement she had picked out).

Well first I noticed the back of the freezer compartment freezing up and the ice not freezing. I moved all the contents of the freezer to another freezer. I waited and noticed even when pluged in and everything defrosted the fan didn't kick on on the condensing unit! After a few minutes it did kick on and I took a guess that the defrost timer was probally ok without checking it. I took eight screws out of the back plate and noticed the defrosting tube on the lower part of the coil was broke in half. I knew I had found the problem. It took maybe 10 minutes to remove and about 10 minutes to order the part. Three days later it was at my door. I took my time installing it which only took maybe 30 minutes. It took longer for me to wipe everything down and clean the inside of both compartments than it did to insall the part. Pluged it in and fired it up and problem solved. Thanks Part Select!

This was an easy fix. The old one had cracked probably from the frige being left out in cold weather. Just remove the back cover. Unscrew the water line and two plastic lines and unplug the two plugs. Then remove a single screw that holds the valve in place and put on the new one and reattach everything. Good idea to recut the ends of the tubing to remove old crimp.

Removed everything from inside freezer compartment (food and shelves) Removed inside backpanel that covered the coils. At the top of the coils is where the thermostat was attached. Removed old one and installed new. Has been working since.

Very easy. Pull out refrig from wall to access the rear, turn off ice water line and Unplug refrig from wall outlet. Take socket and unscrew the one (1) tap holding the unit.
Remove the electric conections, pulling out from unit (there is nothing holding it in place but friction).
Remove the main water tube (have papber towel for water drip, there will be some)
Remove the two water tubes on top of unit (noting which tube goes to which relay)
Reconnect electric connectors to the new unit, reonnect water tubes to the new unit, screw down the new unit.
Turn water on and plug refrig back into AC outlet.
That's it, 20-30 min.

took nut driver and removed screw holding valve to refrigerator removed valve. Swapped water lines from old valve to new valve,plugged in selonoid wire harness to new valve reattached the water valve to referigerator and turned water on and forgot it. No leaks,ice and water in 24 hrs.

removed part., got number, went online,found part, ordered part, paid for part, replaced part.
works great. !

Turn off refrig water supply, remove cardboard rear lower cover, disconnect two plastic lines (one for icemaker, the other for in-the-door water dispenser) and one copper fitting (supply line). Replace valve (mounted with one screw), reconnect, test for leaks.

The valve I was so sure was bad wasn't, replacing it didn't solve my problem. Turned out to be a frozen up icermaker water feed tube at the top rear of the refrig. The Fix: heat a metal rod of appropriate size in boiling water or with a hair dryer, poke it gently up into the water drop tube (sticks out just above the rear of the icemaker) from the inside and melt out the ice plug. Be sure to test this tube if you have the same problem, you should be able to disconnect the line on back of the refrig and blow air through the tube if it's clear. Saved the valve anyway for a spare.

I took Ice maker off and found that water was continuously dripping from water line in to icemaker, I replaced valve and that solved the problem.

I called a local appliance store in town to get a replacement shelf.They did call me back and stated they could not find anything. I found this web site and (had my husband re-measure the size) ordered it on line. I received it in 3 days, and would strongly recommend this web site to anyone.

Simply inserted the shelf. So easy to find just what we needed from the website. We really got great service and the shelf arrived in three days. Thanks so much.

Screw bulb in and place cover over bulb.

Unloading the freezer and removing the back panel were the most time consuming aspect of this repair. Many models only have 4 screws, but this one has 9, and being a side by side it was a tight fit to reach them. Once defrosted we tested the thermostat, found it "dead", and ordered a new one. The part came within 3 business days. Installing it took minutes, since we had not permanently screwed in the back panel again. We didn't want to reload everything until we knew things worked properly, so we didn't put everything back right away. We thought we had further problems as the freezer got really cold but the frig still didn't get down to temp. Turns out we just needed to reinstall the fan shield which we'd taken off along with other parts to access and check the vents. The fan shield must be in place to direct the cold air into the vent to the refrigerator. Duh! It was an oversight that once caught made total sense! Now all works fine on this 20 year old Maytag side by side!

This review would not be helpful if limited to this part. So I will describe the whole repair. The ice maker was first receiving too much water. This resulted in huge cubes and water dripping out of the ice maker compartment. I tried reducing the amount of water using the valve to the supply line. But then the ice maker stopped making ice. I jumped to the conclusion that the solenoid water valve needed to be replaced. The new valve was easily replaced, but no water was delivered to the ice maker. I then went to the web site and saw that 87% of the time it was the ice maker itself that needed to be replaced. I ordered one and it arrived quickly. Installing it was easy although I might never had figured out how to remove the electrical supply line to the old unit if I hadn’t watched the video. After installation no water went to the ice maker tray.

I had read a review saying that the supply line had frozen where it went into the ice maker. To check out that possibility I removed the line from the solenoid valve and tried to blow air through it. No air would pass. So I removed the ice maker so I could get at the possible ice obstruction. I repeatedly inserted a knife honing steel which I heated and reheated in hot water. Finally I heard water dripping to the floor from the supply line which I had left detached from the solenoid valve. Then I hooked everything up and ice making proceeded nicely. If the solenoid valve ever needs replacing, I have a extra one.