Models > 36051

36051 (P1122003W W) Litton Refrigerator

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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If your freezer has stopped making ice cubes, it may be time to replace your ice maker. Normal wear and tear, or accidental damage may be the cause of this. This model includes the control device and ...
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The capacitor, also known as a run capacitor, is a component in your fridge that allows the compressor to cycle on and off to maintain a constant temperature. If your fridge and freezer are too warm i...
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Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
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This 25-watt light bulb is a genuine OEM replacement part for a variety of appliances. The 120-volt incandescent bulb has a screw-in base and is used to light up the appliance when the door is opened....
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This condenser fan motor operates in a clockwise fashion and carries carries 2W and 115V. It comes with screws, a mounting nut for the blade and a cushion. This part provides forced-air cooling for the condenser coil.
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This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep them in position.
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This includes both the run capacitor and the start relay. The capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. The start ...
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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The timer will shut off the cooling system of the refrigerator and the defrost heater will turn on.
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This helix end cap is almost four inches in diameter. It is all white in color and is made of plastic. This end cap is used in a refrigerator's icemaker.
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Sold individually. This bulb is a 7 watt appliance incandescent light bulb.This appliance light bulb is two inches long. It is used for many clothes dryers.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 36051

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Ice maker not making ice
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Light not working
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Leaking
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Noisy
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Clicking sound
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge runs too long
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Too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Not dispensing water
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Door Sweating
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Won’t start
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Customer:
Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
Parts Used:
D7824706Q
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
801 of 885 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
garth from forest lake, MN
Parts Used:
WPW10662129
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
393 of 473 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
Parts Used:
D7824706Q
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on e. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
269 of 364 people found this instruction helpful.
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