Models > 79012

79012 (ASW1SER) LG Refrigerator

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This OEM filter measures 2.5 inches deep, 12.5 inches high, 5 inches wide and roughly 1.5 lbs. It is recommended to replace this filter every six months or 300 gallons, whichever comes first. If you n...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 79012

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Door won’t open or close
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Will Not Start
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Fridge too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Clicking sound
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Customer:
Jerry from CORSICANA, TX
Parts Used:
4984JJ3003A
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
old bushing worn and broken
removed the upper freezer door to access screws to remove lower door.
laid bottom door on its side, removed bad bushing, put new bushing in, put bottom door back on refridge, put upper door back on fridge. Door worked easy as when new. good closure of door and story..Happy customer, and wife even happier.....thank you....
13 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Louis from PHILADELPHIA, PA
Parts Used:
4984JJ3003A
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
bottom door dropped slightly and bottom hinge area rubbing on steel door support
removed 3 fasteners for top door and placed freezer door aside, then removed 3 more fasteners on bottom refrigerator door and place that aside. replaced bushing on lower door bracket and reversed the above procedure to reinstall doors.
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Norris from Telford, PA
Parts Used:
5989JA0002N
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
icemaker stopped working
This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water disp enser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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