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KSRA22KNSS01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

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All Instructions for the KSRA22KNSS01
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Customer:
Norbert from Sugar Land, TX
Parts Used:
WP2182179, WPW10329686
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Refigerator door was not closing all the way if not pushed shut.
Remove the top hinge cover. Removed the top hinge support. Lifted the door from the bottom support. Old door cams were worn completly flat. Replaced the lower door cam and closing cam use a little vasalene for lubricant on the cam surfaces. Placed the door back on the lower hinge support. Replaced the top hinge support. Door is closing great now.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.
393 of 414 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
garth from forest lake, MN
Parts Used:
WPW10662129
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
396 of 476 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Laune from Front Worth, TX
Parts Used:
WPW10225581, 8201786
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Both freezer and refrigerator stopped cooling
Compressor Start Divice kit, I took off back lower panel with the 1/4 inch nut driver, on the compressor their was a wire hook that held the starter in place used my plyers to unhook, pulled the unit off plug the new unit in reappled the clip it was so easy I had to exame it severl to time to make sure that was all their was to it. put the cover back on and turn the refrigerator on and it has work great, I did not install the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat it was not needed.
224 of 281 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Michael from Manvel, TX
Parts Used:
8201786
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Clicking from underneath the fridge, and compressor engaging only intermittently
I diagnosed the problem as a bad relay. I detached the two sets of wires leading to the relay and compressor, then pulled the relay off the compressor. It rattled and small bits of detritus fell out from inside of the relay. The new relay came the next day. It did not rattle. It was identical and I simply did the reverse to reinstall.
198 of 239 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
Parts Used:
WPW10225581
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
154 of 179 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
T.w. from Batesville, AR
Parts Used:
WP2182179, WPW10329686
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Socket set
Refrigerator Door quit closing on it's own......
Door quit closing on it's own......

** Order the following from www.partselect.com

Lower Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS323495

Upper Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS327641




1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket
2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket cover on top of hinge
3. Have someone hold the frige door in place
4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose
5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge.
6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam"
7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one.
8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place.
9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though.
10. Replace with new cam.
11. put door back on hinge
12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws
13. Reinstall plastic cover.
14. Voila, you're done

Thanks PartSelect !
140 of 153 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Bill from Andover, MA
Parts Used:
WP2188819, WP2216112
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Refrigerator too warm, freezer fine
I replaced the Diffuser and the Thermistor (the one in the refrigerator) at the same time. I was not sure what the problem was ahead of time except for the fact that no air was coming in from the freezer section; this is where the air diffuser is. I probably only needed to replace the diffuser.

I turned the circuit breaker for the refrigerator off. There was a small section of plastic covering the wires that run from the top console inside the refrigerator to the back of the refrigerator where the diffuser is. I took this off (one screw) and then the diffuser is connected in the refrigerator side with one screw. To push the diffuser from the freezer, I needed to take off a piece of plastic directing the flow of air from the freezer. I needed to move the ice maker forward a little; it moves forward easily (it sort of clips into place). Once the diffuser was visible from the freezer, I pushed it out or disconnected the four clips holding it in and it came right out. Once this is done, you simply unplug the old and plug in the new and put back in place. This took less than 15 minutes total time. Online diagrams makes ordering parts and fixing easy.

Once the new diffuser was in, I could tell I was golden because I was getting cold air. I guess this piece goes bad from time to time based on others experiences.
144 of 196 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Antoni from vail, AZ
Parts Used:
4389144
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
evaporator fan stopped working
1) removed the face plate that runs 3/4 way up the back of the freezer side. a total of 8 screws. (6")
2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec)
3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec)
3) removed the fan motor (1")
4) put in the new fan motor (1")
5) put on the old fan on the new fan motor(5sec)
6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec)
7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6")
Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.
95 of 104 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Clint from Rayville, MO
Parts Used:
W11384469
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
120 of 195 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Donald A. from ORLANDO, FL
Parts Used:
W11510803
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Wanted to install ice maker in my freezer
I was clening my uprght freezer and noticed that it was preped for an icemaker. I first went to the Whilpool website and could not find my part as my freezer was a 2008 model.

I saw PartSelect on the search page and went to thier site.
I put in my modle number of the Whilpool Ice maker kit that was on the back of my freezer. PartSelect had the part in stock and approx $18.00 less than the other kits listed on the Whilpool site (that did not match my kit number). I orderd the kit on Sunday and it arrived on Wednesday. It took less than and hour to install. Every part I needed was included. The following day I installed the water line and now I have an extra icemaker.
74 of 105 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
DANIEL from MINNEAPOLIS, MN
Parts Used:
4387478
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Light Would Not Go On In The Refrigerator
First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!
61 of 77 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Randy from Hays, KS
Parts Used:
WP2149705
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Socket set
Broken light switch
Took all the screws out of the plastic shroud that encloses the switch .There only four that I needed to remove, were the two in front where the switches that go,they go in horizontally and two in the back with large washers on them that hold the back to the top of the box that go in vertically.The switch was a snap ( make that two snaps ) the wiring is almost self explanatory. then it gos back to the way you took it off. OH! and don't forget to turn the light bulb all the way back in to the socket , so the light will work after you take the time to install it yourself.I had the water supply line from under the box to the water dispenser in the door and the total bill on that was one hundred thirty seven and a hand full of change.Don't be afraid to do it yourself the savings is enough on one one item to make several months payments on a new one Randy the "Handy Man'
77 of 128 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Gregory from Portland, OR
Parts Used:
8201786
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
No Cooling
I noticed the fan was running but not the compressor, they are wired in series meaning the compressor should also have power and you should hear the compressor. Could not hear compressor coming on, removed the white relay attached to the side of the compressor and could hear loose pieces shaking in relay. Ordered new relay and plugged it in, took less than five minutes. Very Easy. Thank you Partsselect
53 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Erik from Yorba Linda, CA
Parts Used:
WP2182179, WPW10329686
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Door was making a clunking noise
The door is very easy to remove. There is one nut for the cap on the top of the soor hinge. Once the cap is removed, you need to remove the 3 nuts holding the hinge in place. Simply lift the door off the lower hinge and rest it on the dining room table. I set towels down to protect the stainless finish. The closing cam will be visible on the bottom of the door. I choose to replace the lower cam and the upper cam at the same time. I did not know what the problem cam was. The door works good as new. I put a small amount of vaseline where the two cams rub to provide a lubricant.
46 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Roger from Bethesda, MD
Parts Used:
W10920279
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
refrigerator stopped cooling, otherwise fine
Well first of all, I was afraid that the compressor was shot and I'd need a whole new refrigerator (ack $1000!!!). After googling/reading, I figured out that the starter relay mounted on the compressor was burned out. (loud click as thermal cutout shuts down compressor.) So, I ordered a replacement part, overnight shipping. Unfortunately, this was on a Friday night, so I had to figure out how to keep the fridge cold all weekend (til Tuesday). I'd already moved frozen stuff to a chest freezer, but the inside of the fridge compartment was now nearly warm at this point, so I got 10 lb of dry ice. That got things cooled down initially. Well, turns out that with a short piece of wire, you can momentarily jump across the terminals of the relay and kick start the compressor. It then runs until either the defrost cycle stops it or the thermostat kicks it off. Anyway, all weekend, every six hours or so, I turned off the fridge for a minute to cool down the overheated, stalled compressor, then turned it on and jumped the terminals to start it up. Kind of a pain, but saved lots of food. Overall, the $30+$30 (shipping) for the part saved me from having to get a new refrigerator, so I'm quite pleased. I've used Part Select many times now. Very fast service and shipping, great website/database. I shop around and every time end up buying from them again.
48 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the KSRA22KNSS01
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