KRFF507ESS01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

Purchased new motor from Partselect.com. When it arrived it came with a new rubber washer that fitted on top of new motor that was not on old motor, that how water got into old motor. However, the instruction sheet did not give info on how to access the proper way to the motor that is the door. Not wanting to damage the freezer door assy. called in a tech who made it look easy, but even he had a little problem locating access panel that was directly under the motor in the freezer side of the door. After that it was a piece of cake.

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Removing the old unit was difficult. The light was clearly designed for installation not for ease of repair. Since I was concerned about marring the surface of the refrigerator I used a paint scraper to get under the lip of the light and another smaller paint scraper to lift the unit away from the body of the refrigerator. It does not just "pop off". I eventually did get it free without any damage to the wall of the refrigerator. The repair was then very easy. There was a connector that was easy to separate allowing for the removal of the old unit without cutting any wires. The new unit had a mating connector, which easily connected to the old connector in the refrigerator. After some pushing I was able to install the new unit into the hole in the refrigerator. It does not exactly "snap in".

researched on line and found the wiring was in series and I the suggestion was to replace the first light in the series that was in the freezer. Ordered the replacement light board and took out the existing light and pooped in the new one. Lights now all work! 15 minutes at tops.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

The hard part was getting the OLD fixture out. They tell you to protect the surface around it with tape, but try sticking tape to a freezing cold surface with water condensing on it! And it's so firmly snapped in place that it takes a putty knife and screw driver to push the prongs back to get it loose. Finally, the fixture is on the ceiling behind the icemaker so very awkward working conditions, plus and you can't see well because ALL of the lights are out (remember, they're in series). To see I had to prop my phone up at just the right angle to shine its little light on the area.

But getting it in was literally a snap. Just snap the couplings together, carefully push the wires into the empty space and slide the rear prongs in, then snap the front ones in simply by pushing the whole fixture firmly. Then pat yourself on the back!

Put painters tape next to light, so I wouldn't scratch surface. Worked edge of light down and out of hole with small screwdriver. Chechen wireing , light might work ? Unplugged light assembly . Plugged in new light , and reinserted light into opening . Removed tape ,, done. You can use putty knife in place of screwdriver. Be patient. Google helps also.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

We were misled into believing we needed to replace the door seal, and after this replacement was completed we found out it was not the case.

Instead we needed to clean out the EXTENSION-DRAIN,DUAL EVAP W11661573, part #5 on the unit diagram, which is found on the back of the unit.

Back to the seal instructions:
Once you remove the original seal you cannot reuse it, so if you replace it and it is not what you needed, you can't return the not-needed part. There goes about $190.

Also, the seal comes with no instructions (at the time there was no instruction video here either and we had to search other sites). It turns out it takes at least 24 hrs for the rubber seal to regain its shape. You also may have to use a hair dryer for this pre-installation process. Because of this, I marked the time of repair as more than 2 hours.
The end of the instruction video we followed called for testing the new seal installation with a bill ($), if you can pull it out easily from the closed door, you need to continue heating the seal with the hair dryer to improve sealing.

So do yourself a favor and test you fridge seal first, to see if you really need to replace it. Close the door with a bill or paper trapped. If it is loose or falls out, seal needs to be replaced, if the bill/paper stays firm enough, the seal is fine.

It took a lot of research through other resources, not Partselect, to eventually fix the ice formation issue. From all the appliance repairs I have done, this was the most frustrating, although not the most complicated. Since no part needs to be purchased (though you could replace the drain tube for just $24 instead of hassle to clean it), no real help from parts stores is available, and you have to rely on random people with their home videos, some are reliable some are not. We could not find one with our model (596.72383411) and had to figure it out based on similar models. Our drain tube has a siphon, so it is a little harder to clean than other models with s straight tube.

Good luck!