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KSSC42FMS03
KSSC42FMS03 KitchenAid Refrigerator
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Diagrams for KSSC42FMS03
Viewing 13 of 13Manuals & Guides for KSSC42FMS03
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$85.22
This ice and water filter is NSF-certified to filter out sediment, chlorine, and lead to improve the taste and odor of your water. It is recommended to change the filter every six month, or after 200 ...
In Stock
$118.52
This part is used to help tell the icemaker what to do - it turns the timing cams and the ejector blades. Motor is not sold separately.
In Stock
In Stock
$46.59
The bi-metal defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator, and its purpose is to protect the evaporator from overheating when the defrost cycle is running. If there is frost building up in your fr...
In Stock
In Stock
$40.40
This icemaker water inlet cup is three inches long. It is all white in color and is made of plastic.
In Stock
$37.20
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
In Stock
$165.75
This ice cube mold and heater assembly has a flake resistant surface. It is used with modular style icemakers on some refrigerators.
On Order
$116.11
This kit includes the module motor, ejector arm, and ice stripper arm. The complete icemaker is sold separately.
In Stock
$62.09
This part is also known as the cycling thermostat and this bi-metal device controls the activation of the icemaker ejection cycle.
In Stock
$7.06
This part screws into the side of the wall in your fresh food compartment and supports a shelf.
In Stock
In Stock
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Common Problems and Symptoms for KSSC42FMS03
Viewing 20 of 20Ice maker not making ice
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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Leaking
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Freezer not defrosting
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Noisy
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Not dispensing water
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Freezer section too warm
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Will Not Start
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Touchpad does not respond
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Daniel from Suwanee, GA
- Parts Used:
- W10190935
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
No ice
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.
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- Customer:
- Nora from Bethesda, MD
- Parts Used:
- EDR5RXD1
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Change ice/water filter
It was really easy. Took off grill at bottom of refrigerator, turned existing filter to get it out and then inserted the new one.
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- Customer:
- Cathy from Winter Park, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10225581
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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