The lower door closing cam raises the door to keep it from touching the refrigerator liner when the door is closed. It fits both the left and right side of the refrigerator door. The most common reaso...
This clear convertible meat drawer is for the lower part of the refrigerator. It has an air duct that allows cold air to flow into the drawer from the freezer. It can be used to store meats and vegeta...
This is a genuine OEM replacement slide out shelf with glass for your refrigerator. The plastic frame and glass are only sold together and are not available separately. This is a standalone shelf and ...
The bi-metal defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator, and its purpose is to protect the evaporator from overheating when the defrost cycle is running. If there is frost building up in your fr...
This genuine OEM shelf for your refrigerator includes both the white plastic frame, and the glass insert. These pieces are only available as a set and are not sold individually. The white plastic fram...
The gallon door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and is typically used to hold jars and bottles within easy reach. These bins are clear, as the white version has been discontinued b...
If you need to replace the glass shelf in your refrigerator, this is a genuine OEM replacement part. Please note that this is strictly the glass shelf insert. The plastic shelf frame is not included b...
This is a single snack pan for a refrigerator. This genuinely sourced pan is in the fresh food compartment and is used to neatly store small items, such as meats, vegetables, and snacks. This clear pl...
If the crisper pan inside your fridge has become damaged, this is a genuine OEM replacement part. The crisper drawer is used to hold fruits and vegetables in a humidity-controlled environment. If the ...
Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
1 question answered by our experts.
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched. Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
May 16, 2022
The shelf one up from the bottom #7 in my refrigerator is not the same shelf as #3. My shelf between the glass and the back wall has a 2" x 18" piece of plastic. Where can I get the correct shelf?
For model number 10641122212
Hello Cary, Thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is Fix Number: FIX4082908. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
1) removed the face plate that runs 3/4 way up the back of the freezer side. a total of 8 screws. (6") 2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec) 3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec) 3) removed the fan motor (1") 4) put in the new fan motor (1") 5) put on the old fan on the new fan motor(5sec) 6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec) 7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6") Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.