Models > 10641122213

10641122213 Kenmore Refrigerator

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Diagrams for 10641122213

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The lower door closing cam raises the door to keep it from touching the refrigerator liner when the door is closed. It fits both the left and right side of the refrigerator door. The most common reaso...
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This clear convertible meat drawer is for the lower part of the refrigerator. It has an air duct that allows cold air to flow into the drawer from the freezer. It can be used to store meats and vegeta...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement slide out shelf with glass for your refrigerator. The plastic frame and glass are only sold together and are not available separately. This is a standalone shelf and ...
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Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
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The bi-metal defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator, and its purpose is to protect the evaporator from overheating when the defrost cycle is running. If there is frost building up in your fr...
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The gallon door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and is typically used to hold jars and bottles within easy reach. These bins are clear, as the white version has been discontinued b...
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This genuine OEM shelf for your refrigerator includes both the white plastic frame, and the glass insert. These pieces are only available as a set and are not sold individually. The white plastic fram...
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This part is also known as a shelf frame. This drawer cover is for refrigerators. Drawer cover has rail brackets under the cover that hold the drawer and allow the drawer to slide in and out on th...
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If you need to replace the glass shelf in your refrigerator, this is a genuine OEM replacement part. Please note that this is strictly the glass shelf insert. The plastic shelf frame is not included b...
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$127.17
This kit includes ice bucket and water valve and fits Whirlpool models manufactured from 1993 to present.
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This is a single snack pan for a refrigerator. This genuinely sourced pan is in the fresh food compartment and is used to neatly store small items, such as meats, vegetables, and snacks. This clear pl...
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If the crisper pan inside your fridge has become damaged, this is a genuine OEM replacement part. The crisper drawer is used to hold fruits and vegetables in a humidity-controlled environment. If the ...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 10641122213

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Door won’t open or close
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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Clicking sound
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Freezer section too warm
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Leaking
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Fridge too cold
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Door Sweating
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Will Not Start
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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  • Customer:
    Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • Parts Used:
    WPW10225581
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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  • Customer:
    Antoni from vail, AZ
  • Parts Used:
    4389144
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
evaporator fan stopped working
1) removed the face plate that runs 3/4 way up the back of the freezer side. a total of 8 screws. (6")
2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec)
3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec)
3) removed the fan motor (1")
4) put in the new fan motor (1")
5) put on the old fan on the new fan motor(5sec)
6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec)
7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6")
Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.
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  • Customer:
    Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Parts Used:
    W11384469
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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